Heater core valve adjustments

[rodrigo]

Hi guys,
A while back I replaced my heater core, heater core piping and o-rings and heater valve. The heat seemed to be working very well but that was in the summer. Now that the colder temperatures are here it seems that the heat is not as hot as it used to be.

I remember when installing the heater valve that the Bentley stated to position the temperature dial all the way to cold and I thought I did that but now that the heat does not seem to be as strong, I'm doubting myself.

Do you guys know of a way to 'adjust' this valve so that it will possibly open at max when the temp dial is all the way hot?

Thanks for the info

[jlevie]

If this is the electrical heater valve, it has no adjustment. The valve is either open or closed.

Was the replacement heater core new? If used it may be partially clogged.

[FLG]

Also are the hoses in the engine bay hooked up correctly? Had poor to no heat when mine were crossed.

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[rodrigo]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

The heater core was new in box with the foam strip: a BEHR unit. All of the aluminum piping, electronic heater control valve and O-rings I got from the dealer.

I doubt the lines are crossed because I remember specifically labeling them with blue tape and a sharpie. If you find my thread on 'project daily driver' you'll see that I really like to use tape and zip locks all tagged up so I don't lose the order of things.

In the end, the car does have heat. Once the water temp gauge gets to about 1/4 the warm air starts coming from the vents. The car has always been that way even before I changed the leaking heater core for the new unit a few years ago. The things is that when it is 30F degrees outside (or at around freezing and below) it just takes so long for the car's cabin to warm up.

None of the vents are blocked, the fan spins well in all 4 speeds, the resistor on the fan is about 3 years old, and there are not any leaves in the air plenum under the windscreen...

I recall it being pretty quick to get that dry-sauna feeling in the car with the heat on all the way hot and the fan on 4. It seems to take a lot longer now when it is around 30 degrees.

Hope I'm explaining myself correctly.

Thanks for all your helps!!

[FLG]

Hmm

You might have a pocket of air stuck in the heater core. Have you bled the car with the front on an incline and the heat on full blast?

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[jlevie]

You should check and see if the blend door is operating properly. That is what the temperature dial controls. One clue as to it being the problem would be a increase in vent temperature it you select recirc.

[rodrigo]

Hmm

You might have a pocket of air stuck in the heater core. Have you bled the car with the front on an incline and the heat on full blast?

Yup...that was done. On a set of ramps, temp in the red, fan at 4.

[rodrigo]

You should check and see if the blend door is operating properly. That is what the temperature dial controls. One clue as to it being the problem would be a increase in vent temperature it you select recirc.

Am I understanding correctly: if I have the heat on in the car and switch on the re-circulator and the temperature out of the vents gets warmer that the actuator door is broken/hung up/at fault?

I'm going to try that.

Also...is the actuator accessible without yanking the dash or is it the 2 flaps that open to the plenum under in the wiper motor tray? I don't recall. been a few years since I had it all apart...

[jlevie]

While possible, it is pretty hard to examine or work on the HVAC box stuff with the dash in the car. Fortunately it is pretty darned easy to pull the dash.

[jeffnhiscars]

the recirc flaps are in the blower housing behind the firewall cover so are accessible from the engine compartment. You should not have to remove anything but the firewall cover to evaluate the flap situation.

There is an upper and lower flap that are linked by a white plastic arm which gets brittle (and is a b$%#h to re&re) so be careful with it. The lower flap is attached to an arm via a ball & socket connected to a servo which is inside near your heater core. I'd have to go look at my spare HVAC unit (dont ask me why I have that) to know how to get to the servo but can post a pic if you need it.

If that made sense..please explain to me what I said :-)

[rodrigo]

the recirc flaps are in the blower housing behind the firewall cover so are accessible from the engine compartment. You should not have to remove anything but the firewall cover to evaluate the flap situation.

There is an upper and lower flap that are linked by a white plastic arm which gets brittle (and is a b$%#h to re&re) so be careful with it. The lower flap is attached to an arm via a ball & socket connected to a servo which is inside near your heater core. I'd have to go look at my spare HVAC unit (dont ask me why I have that) to know how to get to the servo but can post a pic if you need it.

If that made sense..please explain to me what I said :-)

If you can post a picture that would be great.
I know the flaps you are referring to: the ones accessible from the fire wall cover. I replaced both arms and installed new EPDM seals on the flaps to seal tightly :oops: This was all years ago.

[rodrigo]

While possible, it is pretty hard to examine or work on the HVAC box stuff with the dash in the car. Fortunately it is pretty darned easy to pull the dash.

I'm sure it is easier than in my Volvo 240

[jeffnhiscars]

If you can post a picture that would be great.
I know the flaps you are referring to: the ones accessible from the fire wall cover. I replaced both arms and installed new EPDM seals on the flaps to seal tightly :oops: This was all years ago.

It's under the house (where I can pretend it doesnt exist). I'll try to get you a pic if you can correctly spell EPDM without googling it ;)

[E30Gus]

How about a partially opening Heater thermostat? That is what mine is doing. Heat works on warm days but not on cold days. Kindah sucks!