Heater and Blower woes

[JinormusJ]

Just picked up a sweet little late model coupe. Figured best I can do now is try to source the cause of some of the obvious issues it has. I've searched and haven't found much on the issues at hand, so I'll go ahead and post them here:

1. (and most obvious) The blower fan do not blow at settings 1, 2, or 3, only at 4 (max speed)
2. (and still obvious) The heater does not work and at times my heat gauge will flip out and slightly heat above half (usually going uphill)

Now, #1 I completely have no idea about
#2 on the other hand could be that my coolant isn't bled properly (because the to gauge likes to jump sporadically at times) or my heater core pipes are blocked. I was thinking of starting there and then trying to see what the geniuses on r3v knows about this issue as well

Any more help is greatly appreciated ghays!

[vpilarrt]

#1 - need a new blower resistor pack
#2 - would try bleeding and test to see if the cooling fan clutch is good - Stick a rolled up newspaper, about 10 sheets, into the fan with the motor running and warm/hot. If it stops the fan you need a new clucch.

[JinormusJ]

1. Not sure what that is, but I'll research it further and if I have anymore questions I'll ask

2. It's not the fan clutch; that was one of the first things I checked when we picked up the car; mind you, i know a thing or two about these cars haha ;)
The coolant however is 99.9% water, and one of the temperature senders are completely jacked. The heater core itself has been completely bypassed. I'll have to check the core and see if it has leaks and if I need to replace it. Most likely I'll be needing to do a complete stage zero on the cooling anyway, so a new heater box and valve is a must of the heaters not working

[dnguyen1963]

# 1 - Clean out the blower resistor before buying a new one.
# 2 - Also check your SI board/batteries/ground nuts. They are often the cause for erratic temp gauge.

[vpilarrt]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2D%39%31%29%20

[reelizmpro]

Getting a new pack is preferred but you will notice it's comprised of solid state coils...it doesn't go bad like an electronic resistor. The oxidation builds up on the contacts, motor brushes wear out over time and this makes it harder for the motor to start. Do a search and you'll find several topics on it. In summary, take it out, clean the contacts with scotchbrite pad really well, spray contact cleaner in there and try it out. I did mine about 7 years ago and it still works well.

Of course you won't get heat if your core is bypassed.
Jumpy temp gauge is likely a bad ground from a loose or missing nut behind the cluster. Check that first before swapping the SI board.

[JinormusJ]

Replaced my blower resistor; settings 1, 2, and 3 work like a charm now

Now onto the bypass. I replaced my whole Heater core and valve system; newer pipes, new o-rings, newer heater core. Everything's cherry

Except for the stupid bypass... All the tubes are cut to hell, I'm going to have to buy brand new tubes. With that said, where do 1 and 2 from the diagram go on the engine?

There are so many tubes involved in my bypass, I don't even know what OEM should go where..

This should be pretty easy, I'm pretty familiar with which coolant tubes go where, but this bypass is complicating everything. Any little helps guys! Pictures would be sweet too!