Difficulty Starting After New Alternator

[UMGuy]

Changed out my old alternator for a new one, everything seemed to go fine and the car ran great for about 2-3 days after. But then it began to start oddly, it sounds almost although something is being drug by the belt. It has started every time, but it lags. Cranks intermittently and then starts. I will post up a video soon, hopefully. Any ideas? Thanks

89 325ix auto

[jlevie]

If the engine seems to crank hesitantly or slowly the could be a bad connection at the battery (make sure the connections are clean and tight) or the replacement alternator may not be working quite right. Inexpensive generic reman alternators can be an iffy proposition and you may go through a few to finally get one that works right. I now only use factory remans. There are more pricey at over $200 but the work out of the box.

[UMGuy]

I will look at the connections tomorrow as well as get a video up so people can help fully understand what is going on here. The replacement alternator is the Bosch off of bavauto, so that should not be the issue. The battery was replaced about a month ago, when this entire electrical problem started.

Some new symptoms occurred tonight, as I was sitting at a light, my dash lights were very dim, and the Anti-Lock light came on as well as the radio began turning on and off. The car has yet to not start, it just takes a long time and does not sound healthy when it does. It feels as though the engine is dragging along something as it starts. There has been some minor squeaking from one of the belts, it has happened twice and both times went away very quickly.

Any chance I threw off the timing belt? Any chance it is the water pump that got damaged?

[jlevie]

The lights dimming, etc., sounds like low system voltage. You can check the alternator by measuring system voltage at idle (should be ~13.5v) and at 2500rpm (should be ~14v). And those voltages should only drop slightly when load (headlights, HVAC blower) is added.

[Gregs///M]

Very important to verify that the engine ground is clean and secure. This is the heavy gauge cable that runs from the oil pan bolt to the frame rail on the drivers side.

Be sure this cable is free of corrosion, grease, etc. I would go ahead and remove it, clean both ends with a wire brush or abrasive and do the same with the mounting stud on the frame rail. If the cable looks beat up bad, replace it.

This cable closes the ground loop for all engine electronics including the alternator and starter. It carries the ground connection back to the battery.

Also of note, whenever replacing the alternator and starter, always clean the mounting points because they both partially rely on this mounting points as electrical grounds.

[UMGuy]

Cleaned the battery terminals and tested voltage. Idle as ~13v and at 2500rpm it was also at ~13v. I am also not seeing the engine ground but it is receiving voltage to the battery. The start is still very rough, but it has yet to not start.

And here is the video, any thoughts are welcome and appreciated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bhh0-PfbnzM&feature=youtu.be

[jlevie]

Cleaned the battery terminals and tested voltage. Idle as ~13v and at 2500rpm it was also at ~13v. I am also not seeing the engine ground but it is receiving voltage to the battery. The start is still very rough, but it has yet to not start.

The engine ground strap is between the oil pan and chassis on the left side of the engine.

Those voltage measurements say that the alternator isn't working properly. Which could be from a bad ground, burned out battery/alternator warning light, or a bad alternator.

[onthefly]

belts to tight same things happened to me and another time i had it the other way around and it was to loose same issues either way get the tention rite and she will run just fine...............i hope lol other wise i just sound like a jack ass