Shoot, I wish I had seen this thread sooner. Got you covered brotato.
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Wow, that would have saved me lots of trouble and head scratching.Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post
Question: when you popped apart the 02 relay, what exactly did you solder together? Not quite sure from the picture. And because you did that, you didn't have to cut or jump any wires between the 02 and fuel pump relay?
I had jumped the two relays together, but I still get a CEL sometimes and my fuel pump now stays on for 5 seconds after I shut the car off... don't like that.'89 BMW 325is Zinnoberrot / '88 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW GTI 16v Bright Blue Metallic / '91 BMW 325i Black / '91 BMW 325i Sport Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Montana Green / '01 Audi A4 Avant TQM Silver Metallic / '01 VW Jetta GLX VR6 BlackComment
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You are just jumping O2 heater relay pin 30 to 87 internally.
No modifications should be made to the fuel pump relay at all.Comment
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Okay, so by jumping pin 30 to 87 inside the 02 relay, that means that anytime the fuel pump relay is activated, the 02 heater will also have power correct?Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post'89 BMW 325is Zinnoberrot / '88 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW GTI 16v Bright Blue Metallic / '91 BMW 325i Black / '91 BMW 325i Sport Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Montana Green / '01 Audi A4 Avant TQM Silver Metallic / '01 VW Jetta GLX VR6 BlackComment
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Correct.
Now, obviously that makes it hard to power the thing on in accessory power mode, which is when you would typically re-calibrate the sensor. To do that, I usually unplug the fuel injector harness and run the starter for 10 seconds to get fresh air in the exhaust. Then just pull the O2 relay and jump a wire between a fused 12V source and the terminal for O2 pin 87 to get power and calibrate. Then put it all back together.Comment
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