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    Air Conditioning options

    My M20-powered 318is is very much in need of a chilly cabin during the summer months here in North Carolina, but the previous owner decided to forgo this option when he swapped the engine in a few years back.

    Is my only option to purchase a R134 compressor and begin the conversion process or is running a R12 system still viable? There is plenty of access to R12 cannisters on eBay, but is this a fool's errand? Bunged second-hand compressors change hands for little money and I wouldn't have to replumb everything for R134.

    The R134 route seems very pricey in comparison with compressors alone costing nearly half a G.

    Thoughts? Experiences?
    Current: Brilliantrot '91 318is M20B25
    Former: '88 M3 3.2L, '91 318is 2.0L, '90 318i, '85 325e 2.8L, '84 318i 2.0L, '84 318i, '90 325is
    wamchenry@gmail.com
    insta: @simple_machines

    #2
    A lot of people don't change out the compressor and still run r134 with no issues. I did on my last car. Ac worked well for the 2 years I used it
    harry/harout

    Comment


      #3
      all the seals are probably shot on all your R12 plumbing anyway. Whenever I've gotten into these r12 projects, I end up replacing half the parts anyway. So, recommending you just go R134a. That way you won't have to beg borrow and steal for R12 in the coming years.

      Comment


        #4
        To wind up with a reliable AC system you usually wind up replacing all of the o-rings & soft lines as well as the expansion valve and dryer. Then you hope that neither the evaporator nor the condenser have leaks. And of course you need a compressor. At that point you have a system that is fully R134A compatible since the R12 only parts aren't available. So you might as well use R134a and not pay the premium for R12.

        On my restoration car I replaced everything except the all metal lines. With the exception of the condenser I used BMW parts. For the condenser I used a parallel flow unit to compensate for the loss of performance of R134a in a system sized for R12. All told, the parts were roughly $1500.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment


          #5
          Jim, I understand that R134A operates at higher pressure/temps than R12 and therefore the higher flow condenser is ideal, but is the OEM condenser insufficient?

          It's not that I'm trying to cut corners, but I don't need a full-on new specification system either.
          Current: Brilliantrot '91 318is M20B25
          Former: '88 M3 3.2L, '91 318is 2.0L, '90 318i, '85 325e 2.8L, '84 318i 2.0L, '84 318i, '90 325is
          wamchenry@gmail.com
          insta: @simple_machines

          Comment


            #6
            I think I screwed my a/c system up because I threw R134a into my R12 system without knowing. I had a sticker saying r134a retrofitted on my grill, but later found out the grill was swapped. I'm currently trying to figure out how bad I fucked it up!

            FREE BITCOINS!! http://qoinpro.com/71690d1639966bfbf223bf16538cec21
            Originally posted by scabzzzz
            I stand up, pull my dick out, and asked my gf to give me some noggin... Well, she starts laughing at me and I freaked out and ran off and locked myself in a bedroom.
            1989 325i - Project/weekend driver
            2002 325i - DD
            2005 Suzuki SV650 - Toy

            Comment


              #7
              Not to be emo, but: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113435
              "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

              -Dr. Paul Forrester



              Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Alex Mc View Post
                Jim, I understand that R134A operates at higher pressure/temps than R12 and therefore the higher flow condenser is ideal, but is the OEM condenser insufficient?

                It's not that I'm trying to cut corners, but I don't need a full-on new specification system either.
                The thermodynamics of R134a re different. Ideally you need a larger evaporator and condenser for best performance. But these cars can't accept what you really should have. A decent compromise is to replace the serpentine condenser with one that has parallel flow (~$125 as I recall). Not really a major expense.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                Comment


                  #9
                  According to the factory R134 retrofit bulletin, the following left the factory with compressors that are not R134 compatible:

                  318i from 7/85-8/85
                  325e, 325i, 325iC from 7/87 - 10/88
                  325iX, M3 ALL

                  This means if you have a good compressor running R12 and your car was not made during the above timelines, it is suitable for R134a.
                  Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                  Alice the Time Capsule
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                  87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                    According to the factory R134 retrofit bulletin, the following left the factory with compressors that are not R134 compatible:

                    318i from 7/85-8/85
                    325e, 325i, 325iC from 7/87 - 10/88
                    325iX, M3 ALL

                    This means if you have a good compressor running R12 and your car was not made during the above timelines, it is suitable for R134a.
                    While this is interesting, it is irrelevant in my case unless it is acceptable to run a used compressor. Is this worth trying a second hand unit? There are "inspected" units on ebay for small coin.
                    Current: Brilliantrot '91 318is M20B25
                    Former: '88 M3 3.2L, '91 318is 2.0L, '90 318i, '85 325e 2.8L, '84 318i 2.0L, '84 318i, '90 325is
                    wamchenry@gmail.com
                    insta: @simple_machines

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Alex Mc View Post
                      While this is interesting, it is irrelevant in my case unless it is acceptable to run a used compressor. Is this worth trying a second hand unit? There are "inspected" units on ebay for small coin.
                      Its relevant since it also lists the SN's for suitable Bosch compressors to swap in. I cant post the pdf but this is from Pelicans article on the subject:


                      The E30 cars are a little more difficult, as almost all of them were fitted with R12 systems. A detailed BMW Tech Bulletin covers the R12 to R134a conversion (BMW Document # 64 05 96). The E30 cars with compressors that are not compatible with R134a include the 318i (July 1985–August 1985); the 325e, 325i, and 325iC (July 1987–October 1988); the 325iX; and the M3. You should check the part number on your compressor prior to the upgrade to make sure that it is compatible with R134a.The following table shows a list of compressors that are not compatible with R134a. You should replace these compressors with part number 64-52-8-363-550.

                      64 52 1 377 944

                      64 52 1 377 947

                      64 52 1 385 416

                      64 52 1 385 930

                      64 52 1 386 411

                      64 52 1 377 940*

                      64 52 1 377 941*

                      64 52 1 377 943*

                      64 52 1 377 946*

                      *Requires clutch wiring adapter P/N 64-52-1-386-224


                      If your E30 has an R134a-compatible compressor, or if you purchase the upgraded one, all you need is the E30 R134a retrofit kit. Like the E36 kit, it contains a new receiver drier, new O-rings, a capacity label, and a set of R134a valve adapters (part number 82-31-9-067-394). If your compressor is low on oil, you will also need PAG compressor oil (part number 82-11-1-468-042).

                      The full article is here>

                      This article is not intended to be a repair manual for your A/C system, but to serve more as a guide on how the system works, and the maintenance involved with its upkeep.


                      GL
                      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                      Alice the Time Capsule
                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Excellent point Jeff, I assumed everything was now r134a compatible.

                        Regarding compressors, is there anything in the Auto Zone / Advance Auto Parts world that is a viable alternative to a $500 unit from Pelican? Again, trying to keep an eye on costs.

                        Also, what is the consensus on used compressors?
                        Current: Brilliantrot '91 318is M20B25
                        Former: '88 M3 3.2L, '91 318is 2.0L, '90 318i, '85 325e 2.8L, '84 318i 2.0L, '84 318i, '90 325is
                        wamchenry@gmail.com
                        insta: @simple_machines

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Personally, I think this is too much work and expense to mess around with a compressor of unknown origin and Im sure you realize that "inspected" doesnt mean much. I may be doing a retro on my barn find if an r12 top up doesnt get it working so I may be in the same boat.

                          These guys are a good reference and if you do a websearch using the PN's there are numerous sources. I used a Sanden 508 rotary last time and a mounting adaptor kit both of which I paid under $300 for. Seems to me Ive seen the compressors for $225ish and the results were colder AC than my new 911 had.

                          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                          Alice the Time Capsule
                          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                          Comment

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