Don't be scared away, it's just electrical problems:/

[Zreberlcoe]

Alright fellow R3vers I need help with some electrical issue. I would only read this if you consider yourself pretty good at electrical problems or else it might just be a waste of time for you.
Okay so about 2 months into owning my E30 I had a problem slowly occurring where I would start the car and my windows and fan didn't work. So I would pull over and turn the car off Then turn it on, and the windows and fans wouldn't work! Pulling over and stop/starting the motor didnt work every time. soon enough and my problem started getting worse and worse to the point it is now, in which the windows and fans won't work at all when the car is started. So I threw up a thread on here and one guy told me it was the starter, so I tried something to narrow down my problems. So what I did was get the car moving in second gear or so and turn the motor off while driving and then bump start so I didn't use the starter at all and what do you know my windows and fans work again! I have done this trick probably every time I have gotten into the car. Now if you read to this point you would think I would need to replace my starter and this thread was pointless but I made another discovery that makes me think if I replace my starter that it might not cure my problems. While replacing my alternator and water pump belt I hopped in for the first drive and somehow my windows and fan magically worked every time when I started the motor without doing my "trick". My next step was to check the fuses. fuse 10 was blown, which is mystifying in itself. So when I have a good fuse in fuse 10 the windows and fans do work but when the fuse is out the windows and fans Don't work. That's where I'm confused. So I rely on you guys to put in the commentary! Sorry if this is confusing and long just ask for clarification. Thank you!!

[Farbin Kaiber]

Windows and Blower are tied to the k5 unloader relay...

[F34R]

Same with the starter iirc

[jlevie]

If the car is an 88 or later, the cause of this will be either the unloader relays or the unloader switch in the starter. If an earlier car it will just be the unloader relays.

[Wh33lhop]

Jlevie gave you the short story, and I will give you an explanation: basically, your starter is the single most electrically taxing thing connected to your car's electrical system. So when you start your car, you're pulling a lot of current and you need all the juice you can get. Things like windows and fans pull current as well, so it is regular automotive engineering practice to turn them off while you are using the starter to "unload" the rest of the circuit. This is done via the unloader relays which break the circuit for these accessories whilst the starter is in operation.

Your symptoms point towards this unloader circuit malfunctioning. It is likely due to the K5 unloader relay, try switching it out with another known working relay (switch it with another relay in your fusebox, or get a new one--usually ~$15 from an automotive parts store). The relay is located in your fusebox under the hood on the driver's side of the car.

[Zreberlcoe]

When I went to Schomps dealer to talk to them about it I suggested the unloaded relay and they said they had no idea what that is. So I dropped that idea.

[Keanan]

I vote unloader relay or ignition switch. You can take the cover off the relay and see if the contacts are burned, if they are you can clean them up with a small file. If you feel like spending money you can just buy a new relay.

Your ignition switch could be faulty also, when you go to start it it doesn't fully return to the run position. This would also explain why your windows and stuff work when you push start it. When you push start it, the key/ignition switch never goes into the start position. Spray some graphite lube or silicone spray into the key slot then cycle the key a few times. See if that helps anything out.

[slammin.e28]

Unloader relay.

/thread.

[Zreberlcoe]

I just tested wh33lhop's idea of changing out the K5 relay with another relay (K1) and still a no go on the fan and windows on start up:/

[chance]

Pull the wire off the starter for the unloader and ground it. If your stuff works then you can either replace the starter to fix it, or you can live with it being grounded. Just don't operate all the windows and blower when you try to start the car

[Keanan]

I just tested wh33lhop's idea of changing out the K5 relay with another relay (K1) and still a no go on the fan and windows on start up:/

Now go inspect your ignition switch.

[Zreberlcoe]

Now go inspect your ignition switch.

What am I looking for?

[Farbin Kaiber]

Check for power at key off/key on.

[StereoInstaller1]

When I went to Schomps dealer to talk to them about it I suggested the unloaded relay and they said they had no idea what that is. So I dropped that idea.

Wait...you didn't know that most dealer guys suck donkey balls?

90% of anyone in the industry is an idiot. Trust R3V, quit talking to those fags.

Oh, and when we tell you to do something, either do it as we say or fuck off. This is R3V, the best place to get info on your car, period. Dealership asshats don't give a fuck about your stupid 20 year old car, while we adore these cute little badass cars.

Quick instructions for your second test: remove the green/black wire from the starter and connect it to ground. You can do it all ghetto and wrap a wire around the terminal and tape it, this is only a temporary solution.

Once you ground that wire and have your key on, you should have windows and HVAC fan IF your relay is good.

Do not turn the key on until you have disconnected that wire from the starter, you will cause smoke.

You can find all of that stuff in great detail (albeit clear as mud) in the ETM.

Post your results here!

Luke

[chance]

Listen to this guy^

I had the exact same problem as you. And grounding the unloader wire solved it.