Fuse #23/low beams EDIT: Problem solved!!

[freeride53]

Hey guys,

I've had this problem for the last several months. I've tried looking at all the bulbs, connections, wires, etc.. Lowbeam relay is also functioning.

Back in May, I replaced my right sealed low-beam which was burned out. As I was driving the car later that night, my fuse #23 went out, causing all of its functions to not work.
I tried to replace the fuse, but it kept on popping. So I drove it home from LA to San Diego with none of those functions working.

I found this all very odd, as the low-beams and fuse #23 are on two completely separate circuits.

A week or so later, I decided to change its fuse, and it started working again. All lowbeams working and fuse #23 also NOT popping. All was good.
Everything was cool for about a month and a half, even took a nice roadtrip on the PCH from Socal to Norcal with no problems at all.

Come June, the fuse started popping again. This time, the RIGHT low beam stopped working again.
Also now, fuse #23 would pop at random intervals. Sometimes when I'd replace it'd pop instantly, sometimes it took a day, sometimes it took a week.

Now we're in July. The LEFT low beam ALSO stopped working. At this point, I could only drive at night with my high-beams on (which would also make the low-beams work simultaneously through their dual-filaments). Same bull with the fuse #23, sometimes it'd pop instantly, sometimes it'd take days.

So here I am mid-way through August. I am nearing my peak of frustration with this issue. Can any fellow E30 guys chime in? I am completely lost.

Thanks,
Sina

[LJ851]

You have a short circuit somewhere.

Until you roll up your sleeves and find it (or pay someone else to) it will keep acting up. The internet can't fix your problem(s).

[Dj Buttchug]

check all the wiring in the engine bay loom that goes to the lights. Where the loom goes under the valence and then past the ABS on the drivers side.

The loom tape will wear out from rubbing on the chassis while driving. It'll then rub through the wire and short out on the chassis. I had a problem similar to this in my 318is.

[freeride53]

You have a short circuit somewhere.

Until you roll up your sleeves and find it (or pay someone else to) it will keep acting up. The internet can't fix your problem(s).

sleeves have been rolled thank you ;)

i have check all wires in the loom, rolled back their tape, and none are damaged.

relays are ok. no melted bulbs or anything either.

[freeride53]

moving towards a bad switch now.... thoughts on that?

[jlevie]

You have two different problems. Fuse 23 has nothing to do with the headlights and there's a problem somewhere in the circuit that fuse protects. It sounds like there may be a problem with wiring from the relay or the ground for the low beams.

[freeride53]

You have a short circuit somewhere.

Until you roll up your sleeves and find it (or pay someone else to) it will keep acting up. The internet can't fix your problem(s).

You have two different problems. Fuse 23 has nothing to do with the headlights and there's a problem somewhere in the circuit that fuse protects. It sounds like there may be a problem with wiring from the relay or the ground for the low beams.

My only gripe that all of this started happening after I replaced the right low beam.

Maybe just a mere coincidence? I'm headed to the Pick N Pull early tomorrow morning to grab a spare switch and test that out.

Someone noted that the switch is a point where fuse 23 and the circuit for the low beams meet up (?) side by side.

Also, it should be noted that the 2 separate fuses for the low-beams are NOT popping.

From the deteriorative nature of the problem (first only fuse 23, then right low beam, then followed in suit by left low beam) ~ could it parallel the failing of the switch?

[jlevie]

If you look at the wiring diagram and see how the head lights work it will be pretty obvious where the problem has to be. And it won't be the switch. You can get the factory diagrams from http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm.

[freeride53]

yeah...so it wasn't the switch.

currently looking at the ETM but sorta confused as to where the ground wire goes and where it runs to the relay.

[freeride53]

I'm guessing that it's going to be at the ground, since its affecting two separate circuits.
Thoughts?

[GunMetalGrey]

Hey! I had this issue last year, it causes a bunch of random lights to not work lol.
I have yet to find out why mine was randomly popping, it worked sometimes but then would randomly blow the fuse.
I will check back here to see if you get it fixed, and I will let you know if I fix mine when it all goes back together.

[freeride53]

UPDATE:

My switch is okay.

When i turn on the low-beams, the relay for the low beams clicks, so i know it works.

On the high beam function, all 4 lights work. Fuse for LH low beam and RH low beam are also both NOT popping.

But still, low beams don't come on!

[jlevie]

Look at the wiring diagrams...

[LJ851]

UPDATE:

My switch is okay.

When i turn on the low-beams, the relay for the low beams clicks, so i know it works.

On the high beam function, all 4 lights work. Fuse for LH low beam and RH low beam are also both NOT popping.

But still, low beams don't come on!

Just because a relay clicks does not mean it works.


Are you using a multimeter?

[freeride53]

Update....

So i figured out that my sealed beams' low-beam filaments were burnt.
$20 later, I have new sealed beams - they work, i'm chillin.

BUT...

I replaced the switch the one from the yard. Installed, but it was really sticky.
So i took it out and put the original switch back in.

10 mins later i notice that fuse #23 has burned again.

So now... we're back with a lesser of such problem:

headlights are a go (hopefully for good lol) but fuse #23 is back to popping.

I'm just going to label it a "coincidence" that my right low beam burned out at being only 2 months old, and that the left low beam followed suit a month or two afterwards.

and @Lorin yes, I am. That's how I realized that low beam filaments on the low sealed beam units were bad (showing they were open).


Now faced with the question of Could the headlight switch be a cause of fuse #23 popping?