Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Complete loss of throttle and random no start

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Complete loss of throttle and random no start

    Hello R3v's,

    First off love this site, i'm on here all the time doing research, but this is one problem i can't seem to figure out. I got the car about 3 months ago and the problem started 1 month after owning it. I know the PO and he told me that it has never done anything like this at all. The thing ran absolutely perfectly until this point.

    My 89 325i has been having random shutdowns essentially where the fuel pump cut outs (I pulled the seat up and heard it cut out) and the tach just slowly moves lower as i am coasting. Most of the time i can just pop the clutch in and let it out x3 or 4 to get it to restart, sometimes im forced to the side of the road. Normally after i park it (And it heat soaks for a while)after driving it will have problems starting up sometimes for up to 30 mins. Sometimes it fires up perfectly normal.

    It did have an after market alarm which had been disabled but all the wiring was still attached. It had been for more than a year. And had caused no problems, so i didn't think this was the problem.

    First I replaced all the relays(fuel pump and DME relays) no change at all.

    then tested the CPS and it ohmed out by the bentley. At this point im going to swap another CPS from a working car to see if theres a change.

    Changed fuel filter, and fuel pump. I assumed it was the pump since every time I tested the pump it had 12volts going to it when i jumped the relay. I can even hear my main relay clicking when i jump 36 and 2 on the dme plug. Still same thing... plus i kept hearing the pump shut off. No change.

    Swapped ECU with a known working unit. No change.

    I was told to check the c191 connector which i was playing around with see if wiggling it would cause anything to happen, which it didn't. The plug didn't look corroded granted the plastic housing for the female end was broken off. Im thinking about getting these


    I figure its better to replaced it.

    Im starting to run out of ideas here what else could cause this? Im leaning towards something in the wiring harness itself. But its just so random its hard to actually pinpoint where the problem is coming from. Anyone gone through something like this? I want to drive my car again!!


    Any advice is appreciated.

    #2
    have you tried replacing the 24 year old relays? IMO, replace all 3 major relays - the main relay, the FP relay, and the O2 heater relay.

    I chased an issue for months, similar to yours (power would cut off randomly) and it turned out to be a bad main relay. it must have made some contact because the tach still worked, but I replaced everything else - CPS, fuel pump, etc.
    Build thread

    Bimmerlabs

    Comment


      #3
      CPS is not your problem, if it was the tach would drop to zero,( change it anyway, doesn't hurt, use OEM only). Clean all grounds and battery connections, you will be surprised to what problems a bad ground will give you.

      Comment


        #4
        I would add smoke test to your list of troubleshooting, but the relays and bad grounds are most likely the culprit.

        Comment


          #5
          I've replaced the relays with brand new relays. As for the grounds I will clean them up with some contact cleaner to see if theres a difference.

          If thats all it is i will laugh. Anyways heres the ones ive looked at/ need to look at.

          G100 in trunk behind battery / right front shock tower(with battery in engine compartment) - Wire is practically new

          G103 right front shock tower - Looks good too pulled it off and made sure it was all metal on metal.

          G104 on front fender behind head lights - this one looked dirty and got a good cleaning.

          G200 under instrument panel, above brake pedal
          G201 on steering column - Ill have to double check these ones since i don't think i have ever looked at them... Can i see these without pulling it all apart?

          G300 under left side of rear seat bottom - Also looked really good.

          G301 in trunk

          G600 in windshield header

          Any others im missing from this list?

          Comment


            #6
            It sounds like your issue is only once your up to operating temperature. Is that correct?

            If it is test your coolant temp sensor for the ECM not gauge.

            If it's ok next time your car stalls and won't restart unplug your coolant temp sensor, the car should start and run, it should be low on power and running rich, the ECM will think your engine is cold and not use the O2 signal. If this resolves the no start I would consider replacing your 02 Sensor. They only have a 4 year life span anyways


            My issue that ended up being an O2
            Last edited by Golfer_705; 10-23-2013, 04:21 PM. Reason: Add link

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Golfer_705 View Post
              It sounds like your issue is only once your up to operating temperature. Is that correct?

              If it is test your coolant temp sensor for the ECM not gauge.

              If it's ok next time your car stalls and won't restart unplug your coolant temp sensor, the car should start and run, it should be low on power and running rich, the ECM will think your engine is cold and not use the O2 signal. If this resolves the no start I would consider replacing your 02 Sensor. They only have a 4 year life span anyways


              My issue that ended up being an O2
              Ill have to check that out next time and yes it is only once i'm at operating temperature or seemingly so. (Ive never had it fail to start when its the first of the day) Is that the blue plug? by the pressure regulator?

              Although the car will run strong and responds well at operating temp. It just randomly decides to turn off .. also did stomp test code 1444.

              thanks

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by E30Evan View Post
                Ill have to check that out next time and yes it is only once i'm at operating temperature or seemingly so. (Ive never had it fail to start when its the first of the day) Is that the blue plug? by the pressure regulator?

                Although the car will run strong and responds well at operating temp. It just randomly decides to turn off .. also did stomp test code 1444.

                thanks
                Okay so at operating temp you say it runs strong and responds well. Does that mean okay as long as the engine is under load? What happens under a light constant throttle? Does it die then?

                Yes the CTS is the blue plug coming directly off the thermostat housing.

                The 1444 code means no code is present. (No faults found)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Golfer_705 View Post
                  Okay so at operating temp you say it runs strong and responds well. Does that mean okay as long as the engine is under load? What happens under a light constant throttle? Does it die then?

                  Yes the CTS is the blue plug coming directly off the thermostat housing.

                  The 1444 code means no code is present. (No faults found)
                  I just mean it acts completely normal. Ive had it cut out when i am at WOT, when just cruising slowly and even just idling. Doesn't seem to be under any specific condition when the cut of happens. I just finished cleaning up the grounds and same results. Moving through the positive side wires to see if i can find anything.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by E30Evan View Post
                    I just mean it acts completely normal. Ive had it cut out when i am at WOT, when just cruising slowly and even just idling. Doesn't seem to be under any specific condition when the cut of happens. I just finished cleaning up the grounds and same results. Moving through the positive side wires to see if i can find anything.
                    Going through the wires is a good idea. Using an ohm meter would be most accurate way to test for an issue. You can use voltage drop tests instead not always as accurate but quicker. BMW wiring is great.

                    Did you have a chance to unplug your CTS once you were up to temp and the issue started?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Unpluged the CTS and had the same result. =/

                      Although i think i may have found the issue, i ended bending the connector to the fuel pump. The plastic housing had fallen apart and so for some reason i think it wasn't getting full contact.

                      Will update in a week if it is not happening anymore.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Are you referring to the 2 eyelets that connect to the high pressure pump that have rubber boots over them? You can use a voltage drop test or take an ohm reading to diagnose. If they are corroded take a wire brush to the pump terminals to clean them and do the same with the wire eyelets. Or snip the eyelets off and solder new ends on the wires

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Golfer_705 View Post
                          Are you referring to the 2 eyelets that connect to the high pressure pump that have rubber boots over them? You can use a voltage drop test or take an ohm reading to diagnose. If they are corroded take a wire brush to the pump terminals to clean them and do the same with the wire eyelets. Or snip the eyelets off and solder new ends on the wires
                          Exactly Golfer, Not a bad idea, they were not corroded just wanted to make sure it was getting a good connection. even though i thought this was the issue. It seems to be back.

                          For voltage drop/ ohm test, do i test from the terminals on the pump to the fuse box? I was doing it from the DME plug to the pump eyelet terminal.

                          I did see a .2 voltage drop from when i was measuring from battery post to battery post compared to the DME to eyelet terminal. is .2V a huge drop? it was still at 12.4V

                          Also don't i need to reproduce the situation and try measuring for voltage otherwise it wont really tell me anything? Also tried the wiggle test and ohm them out. Didn't see anything abnormal...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Did you pull the rubber boots back on the C191 connector to check for corrosion?

                            Are you able to separate the two halves of the connector? Most of the corrosion is usually hidden, my connector was completely rusted together. Water runs down the harness and under the rubber boots.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by tim88325is View Post
                              Did you pull the rubber boots back on the C191 connector to check for corrosion?

                              Are you able to separate the two halves of the connector? Most of the corrosion is usually hidden, my connector was completely rusted together. Water runs down the harness and under the rubber boots.
                              I did pull the boot back the wire looked ok.

                              but I could never get them apart, i think mine have the same issue... Im going to revisit it. I sprayed it down with electrical cleaner. Let it drain out and did it a few more times. Hoping ill be able to get it apart to see. The plastic housing is broken...

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X