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    Brake/suspension refresh

    Fixing up my '86 E30, and I want to address the suspension and brakes. I picked up the car for $500, so I don't want to completely blow the bank on upgrades.

    That said I do plan to keep the car for a long time, and will be putting money into an M52 swap. So doing things right the first time will be the attitude in some areas.

    The car has been sitting for years and although it does drive now, I'd like to make sure everything is in good condition, and safe. And as always, every replacement is an opportunity to upgrade!

    Overall goals:
    -My plan right now is to DD the car. I want it (relatively) quiet and comfortable.
    -Fix any rust, make it look clean and original(ish). (restomod?) I don't want to swap the diving boards, or "rice" the car out.
    -Lowered, improved handling, without turning it into a track weapon.
    -M52 swap (with exhaust butterfly valve. So i can choose straight-piped or through a muffler ;) )


    Here's my list so far. Suggestions of what to add would be welcome.
    • Caliper rebuild (front and rear)
    • New rotors front and rear (suggestions for type/brand?)
    • New pads front and rear (EBC Yellowstuff? Something else? Cold bite is important for street use.)
    • New springs/shocks. Ideally coilovers, if I can get a good deal.
    • New rubber brakelines
    • All bushings (how many/where are these?) (probably will run rubber/oem, don't need noisy/stiff poly bushings)



    Cheers!
    Last edited by Panici; 04-04-2014, 12:38 PM.

    #2
    > New rotors front and rear (suggestions for type/brand?)
    Plain OE type rotors are the best choice, brand matters little.

    > New pads front and rear (EBC Yellowstuff? Something else? Cold bite is important for street use.)
    A set of Stoptech Street Performance pads would be an upgrade

    > All bushings (how many/where are these?)
    In the front, control arm bushings, motor and transmission mounts. In the rear, subframe and trailing arm bushings and differential mount. The OE parts are fine, but I recommend the offset M3 control arm bushings for better high speed stability.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      Don't forget sway bar bushings and end links too!

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        #4
        Perfect. Thanks guys!

        Anything else I should be replacing/refreshing/upgrading while I have all of the above apart?

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          #5
          check control arms and tie rods and if needed buy decent stuff and do it once
          We can serve you better through Email

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            #6
            Awesome thread I was just going to make one about this!
            Originally posted by Ty13r
            if you scream while doing it you'll gain extra power. worth a try.

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              #7
              I want to improve the handling, without turning my E30 into a hard, noisy, track-built car. Want to comfortably DD the car.

              Should I be buying OE bushings at the dealership? Are they super expensive?

              Or is there a better option that isn't ridiculous like solid metal bushings?

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                #8
                Here's some pictures of all my bushings.

                Is there anything here that still looks usable? (rear diff mount?)

















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                  #9
                  Wow, that all looks quite far gone. You might want to consider replacing the subframes, struts, trailing arms, transmission mount bracket, hardware and bearings.

                  I do wonder with all of that rust underneath if there is not rust hidden elsewhere. If there is rust elsewhere it might not be worth saving the car.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
                    Wow, that all looks quite far gone. You might want to consider replacing the subframes, struts, trailing arms, transmission mount bracket, hardware and bearings.

                    I do wonder with all of that rust underneath if there is not rust hidden elsewhere. If there is rust elsewhere it might not be worth saving the car.
                    Good advice. I'll see how bad it is when dropped from the car, and go from there.

                    Pulling the carpets and dash next week to search for more rust.

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                      #11
                      Hory shit those bushings are wasted! Also, rust. My car hardly has any rust and I have to replace the brake lines... factor that in. Also, hoses.

                      Buy a spool of coated brake line and just do it all yourself. Significantly cheaper that way.

                      Also, polyurethane bushings can be had in soft forms.

                      *EDIT*

                      I think that's one of your brake lines running along the control arm in the second picture from the bottom... that bitch is real rusty. Definitely do the lines.

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                        #12
                        Are you SURE that your car is safe to drive with that much rust? I am afraid to find out and it is not even my car.

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                          #13
                          I'm not sure. That's why I'm not driving the car until I've addressed everything. :)

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                            #14
                            Man I would not wanna drop that rear subframe. Ive done a lot of cars that didnt look half that bad and they needed all new brake hard lines. allow yourself some time and you may be ok. Im from the rust belt too and many times when a cars that bad you cant even get the strut inserts out as the tubes are so far gone. Good luck though.
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                              #15
                              Originally posted by blunttech View Post
                              Man I would not wanna drop that rear subframe. Ive done a lot of cars that didnt look half that bad and they needed all new brake hard lines. allow yourself some time and you may be ok. Im from the rust belt too and many times when a cars that bad you cant even get the strut inserts out as the tubes are so far gone. Good luck though.
                              I suspect your right, and I'll end up running all new hard lines. I'll soak all the bolts I need to take out for a few weeks ahead of time with PB blaster. Worst case I can cut them or drill them out.

                              Thanks for the luck, something tells me i'll need it!

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