Best aux fan?

[Kevinl]

I have a 2300 cfm perma cool fan which is complete bs imo

I also have a torqflo fan that came with the car which may be better but I have no specs and even if I did Im not sure if you can trust it

I also have an e36 fan but I don't think it will work because its mounted backwards in the e36 to make it a pusher.

I'm tired of wasting money on fans so I want one that is a for sure thing

[FLG]

What are you trying to accomplish exactly? Stock aux fan is more then adequate, only should come on with A/C or if car is running hot.

[MR 325]

What engine do you have? If it's a M20 why not just run a clutch fan?

An M20 (without A/C) doesn't need an aux fan at all if the clutch fan is working.

[Kevinl]

Thats why I need it The a/c is pitiful at idle and I have done the parralell flow condensor already

[jeffnhiscars]

Thats why I need it The a/c is pitiful at idle and I have done the parralell flow condensor already

They do tend to be pitiful at idle regardless of the fan but it depends somewhat on the compressor (and system in general of course). They are a variable speed pump typically designed to provide adequate pressure at mid to upper range rpm. If you upgraded to a PF then I assume you also are running r134a but if you kept the original compressor (as some do) then you are not likely to get much in the way of low speed cooling no matter what since they are a lower pressure pump than those designed specifically for r134a. Note that even if its a stock compressor that is "r134a compatible" that refers only to the seals and still leaves you with a head pressure challenge.

Having said ALL of that, I always jump (or remove) the fan resistor which absolutely helps cooling at idle on any configuration so I'd try that before I swap fans. Remember to swap your low fan speed fuse for a 30a and when the noise from the stock fan on high starts to drive you insane, try a 14" Spal pusher with curved blades.

I hope that wasnt TMI...its early

[jdt10768]

sort of related: my aux fan is not starting when the AC is turned on. What should I look for first? Aux fan is fairly new, within last 9 months. Fuses 3 and 18 - will check. What else? Thanks

[jeffnhiscars]

If your middle vent slider is all the way to the right, which is necessary in almost all e30s to energize the AC, then it is 97.3% likely to be the aux fan resister. Try jumping it and feel free to leave it jumped if it works (again swapping in a 30a fuse for the low speed).

[jdt10768]

yes, middle slider was all the way right, top & bottom sliders all the way left.

fuse #3 WAS blown. I replaced it with a 30a fuse, and aux fan starts correctly now.

Is a 30 amp fuse ok? Supposed to be a 15a. I know fuses blow for a reason.

[jlevie]

yes, middle slider was all the way right, top & bottom sliders all the way left.

fuse #3 WAS blown. I replaced it with a 30a fuse, and aux fan starts correctly now.

Is a 30 amp fuse ok? Supposed to be a 15a. I know fuses blow for a reason.

Fuse 3 powers the aux fan in low speed and should be a 15a fuse. Fuse 18 powers the fan in high speed and should be a 30a fuse. If using a stock aux fan in the stock configuration a 15a fuse in position 3 blowing indicates a serious problem with the fan or circuitry. However, if some one has diddled things and is running a non-stock fan or the stock fan at high speed off the low speed relay there is an even more serious problem. The low speed wiring is not sized for a 30a load and the fuse is sized to protect the wiring. Overloading that wiring by increasing the fuse size could result in an engine bay fire.

[jdt10768]

thanks, this is stock configuration, so I will replace with a 15a and monitor it

[jeffnhiscars]

Actually Jim, the wiring is .75 for both the high and low speed circuits on the diagrams I have checked which means they will both carry the higher load. I have also not found anything else in those circuits that has been de-rated other than the 15a fuse.

Of course if there is a short or someone has mucked about with the wiring thats something else but if its just a matter of the resister being jumped then then the 15a fuse will keep blowing and a 30a swap by itself should not lead to any problems.

[FLG]

I rarely if ever, never go against Jim. But I have my resistor jumped and never had an issue with wires overheating

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[jdt10768]

and by 'jumped' - you mean you are using a higher rated fuse in slot 3, yes?

[FLG]

and by 'jumped' - you mean you are using a higher rated fuse in slot 3, yes?

Yes but when I say jumped I mean I have the resistor removed and the wires hooked together without it causing it to be on high speed when I hit the snowflake Hutton

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[jeffnhiscars]

I rarely if ever, never go against Jim. But I have my resistor jumped and never had an issue with wires overheating

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I try not to disagree with anyone but if its Jim I make damn sure I know wtf Im talking about :)

Yes but when I say jumped I mean I have the resistor removed and the wires hooked together without it causing it to be on high speed when I hit the snowflake Hutton

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I generally leave the resistor and use the high side lug as a terminal block for both wires for convenience and it keeps them out of harms way.

Dont you mean to say that with the wires joined it only has high speed when the snowflakes lights up ?