Car died while driving now no spark.

[Skoobeesnak]

I am at work right now but I have been using a Craftsman similar to this one without the AC detector.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digit...1&blockType=G1

[spdracrm3]

yea the refresh/sampling rate on that dvom prolly wont catch ecu control of coil .would be better with a test light or scope

[Skoobeesnak]

yea the refresh/sampling rate on that dvom prolly wont catch ecu control of coil .would be better with a test light or scope

Is there something you would recommend I use to test from Sears or Auto Zone?

I am confused why I wasn't getting any voltage at the coil but now I am. It could have possibly just been a loose connection to the relay? I am not getting a spark at the plugs so I obviously still have a problem somewhere. I did put all new plugs in this weekend just to eliminate bad plugs and the old ones were looking a bit crusty.

[///M42 sport]

following along since I have the same crank no start issue atm too

http://blog.bavauto.com/7533/bmw-intermittent-stalling-325i-others/

worth reading through this too.

[///M42 sport]

issue solved tonight, I had a main relay lying around, the left one in the pic. Swapped it out and started right away!! So happy....and to think it was a $15 part.

OP I had the exact same issues as you. Randomn stalling, then immediately when I went to turn the ignition nothing. Left me stranded once, towed car back home. Waited a few days, started up again like nothing happened. When I did stomp test it was 1444=no failures

[Skoobeesnak]

issue solved tonight, I had a main relay lying around, the left one in the pic. Swapped it out and started right away!! So happy....and to think it was a $15 part.

OP I had the exact same issues as you. Randomn stalling, then immediately when I went to turn the ignition nothing. Left me stranded once, towed car back home. Waited a few days, started up again like nothing happened. When I did stomp test it was 1444=no failures

Congratulations and getting your car running. Not sure if I put this in my original post or not but I swapped the main relay after I did my fuel pump so that isn't my issue.

[Skoobeesnak]

OK so just a little update. I have gone back through and was re-checking I had previously tested. I do have power on the solid green wire going into the relay under the dash but I do not have power going to the coil. I jumpered the green and red green wires an tested again and still no power at the coil. I then was checking my fuses and noticed that I had a 30 amp blown (this could have happened when I was jumpering the green and red greeen wires with the ignition still on). I replace the fuse and still no change. Should I just order the relay under the dash at this point?

Thanks again for your collective wisdom.

[spdracrm3]

i hope your jumpering to the Green/Red wire (green with red stripe) not a red/green wire which i dont even see one near the OBC relay box ,the two pins are right next to each other at pin 3 and pin 4 in the connector(i see them in your picture) . pin 4 should be switched power from ignition switch and pin 3 is the feed out to coil and main relay ,which pin do you have power on ? and does it go away with ignition switch off?

what was the number on the blown fuse? the diagram doesnt show a fuse for the feed to the ignition switch which is the supply green/red wire at pin 4 its a direct feed to 30 pin from battery junction block, so shouldnt be an issue (especially as you state you have power to relay box)

[Skoobeesnak]

Hello spdracam3, I was hoping you would reply again since it seems like you are familiar with some of the symptoms I am having.

I should have been more clear earlier yes it is pins 3 and 4 3 being solid green and 4 being green with a red stripe. I was sloppy in my description. I did just go out and test and there isn't power on the pins with the ignition off but when I turn the key on I get 12 volts.

The fuse that blew was 27 which according to the Bentley is Interior lights, Central Locking, On-board computer and radio amplifier. I am somewhat certain that it blew when I was jumping pins 3 and 4 and forgot I had the ignition on. I just re-tested and checked the fuse. The fuse is good but I still don't get any voltage at the coil.

[spdracrm3]

ok disconnect the 4 pin connector and tell me which pin are you getting power on with key on? what color is the wire to that pin? then jumper the two pins and confirm that the second wire now has voltage present
(backprobe both pins with voltmeter, humor me ) ,and confirm that with two pins jumpered and voltage present at both pins that you still dont have voltage at coil positive terminal. in which case we have a wiring issue most likely at C104 connector


also year make and model ? most model ETM's are the same across the E30 range but will check a correct diagram to be sure .
do you have your ETM also? if not download here http://www.wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

[Skoobeesnak]

I am getting power on the solid green or pin 3 with the key on. Pin 4 the green with a red stripe has no power.

With the green and green/red jumpered I do get 12 volts positive at the coil no. One thing I didn't expect was if I put the ground to the negative side of the coil it showed no voltage. If I grounded the the second probe to anything like the bolts on the struts or the engine I get +12.3 volts.

[spdracrm3]

" One thing I didn't expect was if I put the ground to the negative side of the coil it showed no voltage."

this is normal (its like doing a voltage drop test and should read low to 0v) your basically testing positive to positive

"If I grounded the the second probe to anything like the bolts on the struts or the engine I get +12.3 volts."

again normal your now checking positive to chassis ground (negative)and should read close to battery voltage depending on circuit just like placing leads on each terminal of battery

alright back to where we were ,with power at coil you need to test the control side (neg coil terminal with a test light or scope) voltmeter you have wont work . any chance you can borrow/buy a test light ?(not a logic style ,and old bulb style ) or have a 12v lightbulb and some jumper leads to make a test light like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBcmoC9h07s . use test light on coil neg (one end on terminal other to ground just like voltmeter leads),and with key on it should light up and when cranking it should flash if ECU is working to control coil.

[Skoobeesnak]

OK I made up a test light just like the one in the youtube video. Thanks for that link. With the key on the bulb lights up somewhat dim but it does light. For kicks I put it on the positive side of the coil and it lit much brighter. Back to the test. When the key is first cranking the test light goes slightly dim for just the initial crank but then stays on about the same brightness while cranking. I am not seeing any on / off blinking of the light at all.

[spdracrm3]

well that explains the no spark as the ECU isnt controlling the coil ,and the big question is why seem like a lot of things have quit at the same time which is crazy ....looks like from your first post you've replaced a lot of things to try . and now it comes down to checking inputs and outputs at the ECU . does the check engine lamp come on when key is turned on? you say you did the stomp test did it flash any codes (if i remember it will flash 1221 if there are no codes) need to check powers and ground at ECU ,then crank signal at ECU

never did get an exact year and model ?

[Skoobeesnak]

OK the check engine light does come on. I tested and swapped both ECUs and get the same stomp test code of 1444 which according to this chart means no failures. http://www.rtsauto.com/stomp-test-an...73-ecu-vs-153/

I printed out a diagram with the pins so I can check whichever pins you think are needed for the coil to fire.

Most of the things I replaced in hindsight weren't necessary. I should have been more methodical in my initial testing instead of assuming I already knew what it was.

This is on a 1987 325iS. Thanks again.