New clutch needed - what upgrades should I look at?

[Sean]

Ok... i just bought a 1988 325 and it needs a clutch pretty bad.

Not only have I never done this, but I'll definately be taking my time. I'll probably end up doing this while the car is up on jackstands. But, if that's the case, it won't matter how long it takes to get done. ;)

But, basically, I wanted to ask what I should look at buying. I need some help coming up with a list of all parts that I will need, and any upgrades I should persue.

I found the Sach's Clutch Kit at Bavarian Auto - I guess it has everything I enneed for $260? Well, since I'm going to be doing this myself, I want to see if anything can be upgraded.

Basically, I want to know - what are ALL the parts I need to buy that are OEM, like their parts numbers and stuff. Then I want to cover the parts that CAN be upgraded.

So, any suggestions, comments, or anything are definately welcome. I will be doing this myself, and I'm willing to look at all upgrade possibilities.

Thank you! :D

[Saul325is]

Since you are dropping your transmission, I would replace all of the OEM items.

-Pilot Bearing(throwout)
-Release Arm
-But a Sach clutch kit(I bought the heavy duty)
-Replace most of the nuts and bolts
I think the list is a tad bit longer, also..

If you are dropping your trans now would be a good time to get a short shifter(if you want), and a performance lightened flywheel.

-Saul

[Sean]

Yeah, I was planning on a SSK.

What type of lightened flywheel should I look at? My dad suggested this - but, for upgrades, I have no idea where to look?

Can I actually get a better clutch than teh OEM Sach's kit? Or, is that probably the best way to go anyway? (my accord friend keeps saying to get a 6puck clutch, but I'm not sure where to look for better clutches, and what has to be upgraded along with it)

I'll probably get new Tranny mounts too.


Also, are there any other parts, kind of unrelated to the clutch/transmission that I may want to upgrade while the tranny's out? Basically, stuff that I'd have to take the tranny out for in the future (other than the flywheel)

[Saul325is]

Yeah, I was planning on a SSK.

What type of lightened flywheel should I look at? My dad suggested this - but, for upgrades, I have no idea where to look?

Can I actually get a better clutch than teh OEM Sach's kit? Or, is that probably the best way to go anyway? (my accord friend keeps saying to get a 6puck clutch, but I'm not sure where to look for better clutches, and what has to be upgraded along with it)

I'll probably get new Tranny mounts too.


Also, are there any other parts, kind of unrelated to the clutch/transmission that I may want to upgrade while the tranny's out? Basically, stuff that I'd have to take the tranny out for in the future (other than the flywheel)

Stick with a Sach heavy Duty clutch, they will last you 100k+ miles, and can withold 300+ hp(i think only the heavy duty ones). I am not sure about the lightened flywheel. I would talk to Trent at Apex Motorsports about that. You could PM him (Trent), www.apexengineering.com

Any other mods? I am not really sure, ALSO i would replace your guebo.

[Bill 84 318i]

The pilot bearing is not the throwout bearing. :?

The pilot bearing goes inside the back end of the crankshaft and holds the end of the tranny input shaft when the tranny is installed.

If you don't have power upgrades, I don't see the point in going with a Sachs HD clutch. OEM will be fine and can easy last 100k. A 6 puck racing clutch can be annoying on a daily driver as well. Not to mention an eta doesn't need that sort of grip.

Parts I'd replace:
Clutch disc
Pressure plate
Throwout bearing
Pilot bearing
Pivot pin
All seals (engine rear main, tranny input, tranny output, tranny selector shaft)
All shifter bushings (and might as well get a shorter throw lever)
Exhaust gaskets, all self-locking nuts on the exhaust
New flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts are required
Resurface the flywheel

Check guibo and center support bearing as well. Tranny mounts can't hurt.

I dunno exactly what is included in a clutch kit in terms of seals, etc., so I'd call your source up on that. You can probably find it cheaper than BavAuto sells it for too. Try places like BMA, Pelican Parts, etc.

I always feel like I'm forgetting small parts when I post about this, so I'll post again if I did.

[Beej '86 325es]

I'd stick with the OEM clutch. Mine lasted me 200,000 miles, I saw no reason to upgrade. Do the lightened flywheel, you can get an aluminum one from tons of places, Ireland Engineering, BMP, Bav Auto, etc... I got a shaved down OEM one from Metric Mechanic that I like a lot for about $350 with core.

Since you're dropping the transmission, you might check into replacing some shifter parts like Bill said. You might even replace that knuckle assembly that connects the selector rod to the transmission too since that is sometimes a big source of shifter slop.

[Jon325i]

I'd stick with the OEM clutch. Mine lasted me 200,000 miles, I saw no reason to upgrade. Do the lightened flywheel, you can get an aluminum one from tons of places, Ireland Engineering, BMP, Bav Auto, etc... I got a shaved down OEM one from Metric Mechanic that I like a lot for about $350 with core.

Since you're dropping the transmission, you might check into replacing some shifter parts like Bill said. You might even replace that knuckle assembly that connects the selector rod to the transmission too since that is sometimes a big source of shifter slop.

Agreed. The stock OEM clutch is more than sufficient for your needs. Its my understanding that this clutch package can handle 200+ HP easy, and my 325i is making around 170. If not abused it can last a very long time. My car presently has 220,000 miles on it with the original clutch. Not bad if you ask me.

As for flywheel options, you have many. On my previous E30 I opted for a Metric Mechanics lightened flywheel. This part is a machined down stock wheel, not a bonafide aftermarket aluminum part. MM shaves enough metal down so it weighs around 13lbs. Not the lightest, but a respectable improvement. I immediately felt a difference with matching revs during heel/toe maneuvers and there was only a slight trace of a vibration that was noticable at idle (a compromise with lightened flywheels). The best part of this upgrade, the price. After sending back my original for a core refund my final cost was about $250. IMHO, its worth considering.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Jon

[Sean]

The only reason I did ask about an upgraded clutch and other stuff was because I do plan on doing a Super Ita conversion - since this is a Super Eta afterall. But, even then, the power from that shouldn't surpass 200 horsepower. I don't know if I'd consider a turbo for it right now or not, but if I did, you think the clutch would still handle it?

However, a long time from now, I may consider putting in an M50 or S50 engine, not for a while. But, wouldn't I need a newer transmission for that anyway?

Basically, I want stuff that could possibly support a Super Ita conversion and MAYBE a turbo for that engine - not sure about that yet, just trying to get ready for the future, ya know? ;)

That metric mechanic idea sounds really good to me, I'd probably do that and the Sach's HD Clutch kit. Where would be the best price for that?

[Jon325i]

Best price for the Sachs kit? Couldn't tell ya....browse around to see what you can find. The Metric Mechanic flywheel you order direct from the source....

http://www.metricmechanic.com/

Jon

[Sean]

Best price for the Sachs kit? Couldn't tell ya....browse around to see what you can find. The Metric Mechanic flywheel you order direct from the source....

http://www.metricmechanic.com/

Jon

Yep, thought so. I'm adding that to my list now.

Now I want to find the best place for everything else. I'm a bit confused, will I get the "clutch kit for dual-mass flywheels"?


Here's the page at Pelican Parts that I was looking at:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE30/POR_BE30_clutch_pg1.htm#item3

Does the Clutch Super Kit have the Sach's HD Clutch in it? Cause I think that's what I want to go with.

[bimmerphile]

sean,

remmember you are going to need to do other stuff with the clutch while you're in there, including replacing the linkage to eliminate sloppiness.

Personally, I'd just have the flywheel resurfaced.

Add tranny mounts, rear transmission seal to that list too.

[Sean]

Yeah, I know.

Can I have it resurfaced locally?

[Spaz]

Yeah, I know.

Can I have it resurfaced locally?

any automotive machine shop should be able to do it. And its about 30min turn around time.

[randomtask37]

while u got the tranny dropped u could try jordans "bitch clip" fix.

[Sean]

while u got the tranny dropped u could try jordans "bitch clip" fix.

That's something else I was going to do too. I already have that planned. 8)