water pump removal and install

[Group A]

Make damn sure its on TDC when you pull off the timing belt... and when putting on the new one... make damn sure its on TDC on both the top and bottom. This mistake probably cost me around 4k :-p

heh heh:drink:...we couldnt find the marks, so we just left it as is....hoping nothing will move....heh heh ........btw, what is the little gear to the far right between the cam gear and the crank go too, the one that the timing belt loops around.

on other news, me and my friend, who is a member on here (tonytoni?), just got done taking the e30 apart. we removed the radiator, fan, all belts and pulleys, and the water pump. we are now just waiting for the new water pump to come in from the mail.

well, the water pump appears to be working fine, and the radiator is not clogged, and the thermostat is working, so im stumped. should i check the cat next now?

and last question...i was calling around local auto parts store trying to find a timing belt, but they had 2 diferent ones for my e30. one has 127 teeth, and the other 128...which one is for me?? car again is a 86 325 (no E, ES, I, or IS...just plain 325)

[kommissar]

what is the little gear to the far right between the cam gear and the crank go too, the one that the timing belt loops around.

If you're referring to the timing belt pulley above the crank pulley in the picture below I think it is just a dead pully used to route the belt properly.

well, the water pump appears to be working fine, and the radiator is not clogged, and the thermostat is working, so im stumped. should i check the cat next now?

Check it for what? Is your car idling weird or something? I just read the whole post and didn't see you say there was a problem with it, but maybe I missed something.

one has 127 teeth, and the other 128...which one is for me?? car again is a 86 325 (no E, ES, I, or IS...just plain 325)

I'm pretty sure it is the 127, check the dealer or RealOEM. What is your VIN?

[Group A]

Check it for what? Is your car idling weird or something? I just read the whole post and didn't see you say there was a problem with it, but maybe I missed something.

I'm pretty sure it is the 127, check the dealer or RealOEM. What is your VIN?

people told me to check my cat because it might be broken and chunks have plugged up my exhaust and making it overheat? i dont know, i never heard of anything like that, but a couple people say that might be the case.

my VIN is WBAAE640460993495

how do i find my production year and month, what is "the BMW sticker" ??

[kommissar]

people told me to check my cat because it might be broken and chunks have plugged up my exhaust and making it overheat? i dont know, i never heard of anything like that, but a couple people say that might be the case.

my VIN is WBAAE640460993495

how do i find my production year and month, what is "the BMW sticker" ??

They may be right about the cat. The car was made in 12/1985 so it's over 20 years old. The stock cat is probably gone; I know mine was.

BMW sticker is in the driver's side door jam. Here is what your vin results are from http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi. Run it there for more info (note that you could have had an engine swap or something, this may not be accurate).

Also, here is a link to your car on RealOEM. Click Browse Parts to check out parts; you can find the answer to your timing belt question there (assuming the PO didn't swap the e motor for an i motor or something).

Chassis number 0993495
Vehicle code 1564
Series E30
Model 325e
Body type saloon
Catalog model USA
Production date 1985 / 12
Engine M20
Transmission Automatic
Steering Left
Catalyzer YES

[Group A]

tight, its 127 tooth. thanks for the help.

[Group A]

funny story guys....ok

we got everything pretty mcuh back in, all we had to do was reconnect all the hoses and we were good.

then we realised, we forgot to mount the plate that holds the crank position sensor........so now we have to take alot of stuff back out and get it on....yup, we suck, especially me, since im planning on being a automotive technician

[James Crivellone]

If you're referring to the timing belt pulley above the crank pulley in the picture below I think it is just a dead pully used to route the belt properly.
[IkG]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads5/pic13.jpg[/IMG]

That actually runs the oilpump....not a dead pully by any means.

[bddog]

Sure hope you installed a new belt tensioner , as there life span is about the same as a water pump ,and should be replaced every time you do the belt.

[DJB]

You want the Contitech brand 127 tooth timing belt.
Other brands are frequently reported as louder and unreliable.



Some Belt Info

The m20 engine uses a 25mm wide timing belt. It originally came with
two variations: a 128 tooth belt, and a 127 tooth belt. All
replacements should use the 127 tooth belt. The length difference is
taken up by the tensioner, which should always be marked "Z 127". (It's
pretty much inconceivable that there is still a functional earlier model
tensioner, but it's known to be failure prone.)

The timing belt drives the cam shaft and an intermediate shaft. For
computer-controlled fuel injected engines (all U.S. deliveries) the
intermediate shaft drives only the oil pump, and there is no specific
shaft alignment. Some engines had traditional distributors driven by
the intermediate shaft (you can see the blocked hole on the left side),
generally paired with carbs. For those engines the intermediate shaft
also must be aligned when the timing belt is installed.
Camshaft drive belt tensioner to engine (bolts) 22+-2Nm (16+-1 ft-lbs)
Front end cover to engine (bolt)
M6 9+-1 (6.5+-0.5)
M8 22+-2 (16+-1)
Intermediate shaft sprocket bolt 60+-5 (44+-4)
Reference sensor mounting bolt 7+-1 (5+-0.5)
Vibration damper to crankshaft (nut and pulley bolts) 22+-2

Tool size needed:
Most bolts and nuts are 10mm, 13mm or 17mm
Crank turning
22mm box wrench or socket
Crank pulley
13mm socket on 2-3" extension
Reference sensor
5mm hex key
Distributor rotor
3mm hex key
hose clamps
6mm socket, deep or on an extension
hood bolts
10mm socket, 1/4" drive to clear hinge
fan clutch
32mm thin wrench

Hose clamps -- have at least one spare
42-48mm

Valve cover
Cylinder head cover to cylinder head (nut) 15+-1 Nm (11+-1 ftlb)
Spark plugs 20-30Nm (15-22)

[kommissar]

That actually runs the oilpump....not a dead pully by any means.

Wow, cool. I always wondered where it got its power from.

then we realised, we forgot to mount the plate that holds the crank position sensor........so now we have to take alot of stuff back out and get it on....yup, we suck, especially me, since im planning on being a automotive technician

You don't even want to know how many times I took my engine apart after doing the timing belt to try and find a rubbing noise. I think I took it apart completely twice and then once with the radiator hoses still in, but the radiator out.

It turns out that the outer ring of the vibration damper was just slightly contacting the fan pulley each revolution. If you look at the vibration damper, it is actually two pieces of metal stamped together and when i removed it i pushed the outer one off about 2 mm. Clearance is tight. The first time I heard that noise when i started the car I almost shit myself because I thought my timing was off.

[Group A]

thanks to the guy above with all the knowledgable information and aqll the torque specs i needed. i really appreciate it, too bad i already got everything abck together. haha.

ok, everything went back together fine, engine fired up fine and ran ok (THANK GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:crazy: ) but its still overheating. not as bad as ebfore though, now at idle it will sit a little over the middle, and when driven it will go almost to 3/4 mark. but keep in mind this was at night with the temperature being 80-90 degrees and the hood off.

this is everything i have done:
new timing belt
new thermostat
new water pump
flushed the radiator (ran a hose through it to make sure it isnt clogged)

as far as i know the cooling system is working. im really stumped now, so should i check the cat now as stated above? how should i check it? should i just take it to a local muffler shop and ask them if my exhaust system is clogged and/or my cat is broken?

[PУCCKAЯ_e30ka]

radiator might be clogged.... i doubt the cat... it's your radiator

[Group A]

radiator might be clogged.... i doubt the cat... it's your radiator

i ran a hose through the radiator (stuck the hose into the bottom hole and water came gushing out of the upper hole) so it cant be clogged, right?

[Group A]

ok i flushed the whoel system this time, including the block. i started it up and let it idle for about 10 minutes. it idle normal but then it died. i tried starting it up again but i wouldnt run. so i waited for about 5 minuutes and started it, it started up but idles REALLY rough, almost about to die. if i give it gas it wills truggle and die, but if i give it a little thorttle (like push the pedal only a couple milimeters) it will rev up and holds its rev. i reved it and held it at about 5k and it ran fine. but right when i take ym foot off the gas it idles rough again and sounds like its about to die.

i changed the iming belt also, but i dont think this can be a timing problem, since the night i put the timing belt in i test drove it for about 5 miles and had it idle a total of about 15 minutes all together and it was ok. so if it was timing it would've happened immediately after the install right?

so im really leaning toawrds the cat. now. could it be that there is tool much back pressure from a clogged exhaust system thats causing it to run like this? the exhaust has been mkaing nosies too prior to this, like theres chunks in it rattling

o yea, and it didnt overheat this time, probably because i wasnt able to let it idle long enough and/or put enough load on it to make it overheat, but i just need to make it run again right now