im stupid and need help ..very long but please!!!!!!!!

[arsevader]

sorry not to jack the thread or anything but is it really necessary to drill a hole in your t-stat housing to bleed the system when just taking the cap off of the coolant reservoir works fine?
thats all i ever done an ive never had vapor lock, just run the engine with the cap off for a couple of minutes

The resevoir is lower than the housing which is why there is a bleeder screw there.

[nismoman]

new info

hey guys thanks for all the help but ive still had no luck. the way i am bleeding it or have tried every way is, haveth eheater going, have the cap on with the expansion tank full and the bleeder screw off. this did nothing. then i tried having both closed and letting it get hot and then cracking the bleeder screw , this also didnt help, then i loosened the cap on the expansion tank and a bunch of suddds came out then coolant, so i kept doing this but all that happened was coolant slinging every where an ddrenching my timing belt , so i stopped,

does any body have the exact way to go about vleeding all the way from the beginning to end.


After all this shit has hapened i gave up and decided to tackle the number 5 cylinder and number 6 cylinder non running condition. ( i figured this out from pulling those plugs and the engines idle did nothing but if you pulled any of the other plugs the motor would start bogging and loping.) so i checked compression to make sure there wasnt a fucking hole in my piston and to make sure the valves where opening and closing properly whic would verify that i had my timing from replacing the timing belt correct. well all 6 cylinders have 200 psi exactly. so all cylinders have amazing compression. i then threw a timing light on the 5 and 6 wires to see if they where firing when installed . yes they are. i then pulled all the plugs and replaced them 5 and 6 were wet as hell and all the rest where light brown. but the weird thing i noticed was 1 through 4 have a tacky substance almost like slug oil or something. im sure from the car sitting and not being ran for so long before i purchased it. i dont know what else to do..... you cant adjust ignition timing on a stock ignition right? also there is a black wire that goes down to the area around the power stearing pulley , this is frayed as fuck.. what is this wire do? also my crank sensor( speed sensor that rest on that vibration plate is barley touhcing that plate , is that the correct spot for it?

Next possibility is if my battery is so fucking dead that it barley turns the car over and i have to use a jump pack most of the time, will this affect my ignition even when the car is running. My bently is on its way but im just not familiar with how bmw's ignition gets its power?? thanks homies

[kommissar]

does any body have the exact way to go about vleeding all the way from the beginning to end.

Sure. First add coolant until the level reaches the mark on the reserviour. Next, loosen the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing and add coolant until it spills out from the screw. Tighten the screw and start the engine. With the engine idling at normal operating temperature (about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up on the dial for me), loosen the bleeder screw until the coolant spilling out is free from air bubbles and tighten the screw. After the engine has cooled, recheck the coolant level and fill back up to the line.

That is almost straight out of the Bentley and what I did in my car and it works fine.

you cant adjust ignition timing on a stock ignition right? also there is a black wire that goes down to the area around the power stearing pulley , this is frayed as fuck.. what is this wire do? also my crank sensor( speed sensor that rest on that vibration plate is barley touhcing that plate , is that the correct spot for it?

No you cannot adjust the timing. All the ignition/fuel injection functions are controlled electronically. The timing is based on the engine’s load, speed, ignition quality, coolant temp. and air intake temp; the distributor just determines which cylinder gets the voltage.

I am not familiar with the wire you are talking about. Is it one of the wires that is clipped to the front of the timing belt cover? One of those wires is the wiring for the pulse sensor.

It sounds like you have an i or an is. On the i/is and 88-90 325's there is only one pulse sensor to sense engine speed and crank position mounted on the front of the engine where you said. If it does not produce a signal then the car won't start. If the engine is missing at constant speeds Bentley recommends a series of tests to see if the sensor is good; but I won't bother to write those because that doesn't seem like your problem.

The sensor should be 1.0 +/- 0.3 mm from the vibration damper.


It sounds like you are just not getting spark. Did you check your distributor cap contacts? Are the sparkplugs bad? You said they were full of black gunk; did you try new ones?

Next possibility is if my battery is so fucking dead that it barley turns the car over and i have to use a jump pack most of the time, will this affect my ignition even when the car is running.

I would tend to say no here. The reason I say this is because your car is firing on other cylinders as well as the fact that I have driven cars (but not this one specifically) on a dead battery many times.

[nismoman]

sweet job on the explanation of the bleeding. i will try that once my battery finishes charging. one problem when i fill my expansion tank to the top. no coolant is coming out og the bleeder screw even when i squeeze the lower hose that is coming from the water pump going to the thermo housing. i can hear air pushing and sucking and the gurgle of coolant in the line but nothing comes out.

this is when its cold and im first filling the coolant expansion tank.(with the heater on)

as far as the spark plug goes i have brand new ones that i just put in last night.

my car is a 1985 325e

the wire i am talking about that is pretty frayed goes down the right side of the motr(header side) to the oil pan . i'm guessing this is a sensor oof some sort ?

i guess lastley my timing marks where right on when i put it back together from changing the water pump and timing belt i have also replaced the thermostat.

the motor is in tip top shape because it has basically factory compression.... what i meen is that the valves pistons, piston rings and cylinders are sealing perfect which leads me to believe again that it is not a engine timing issue. just because one my valves would most likely hit the piston if it was off or the piston would be forcing air out while one of the valves was opening or still closing on the combustion stroke.

[kommissar]

Well, I never really said you had a timing issue; I was just answering your questions. I don't really know what could be wrong with your car besides what I already mentioned about the lack of sparking. The black oil on the plugs is weird; it doesn't make much sense as to why it would be there. Did it show up on the new plugs too? Usually this happens on cars where the piston rings are shot but you have such a high compression this can't be the case. Maybe it is your valve guide oil seal?

You do have an early e - Then there should be 2 sensors on the flywheel, one for speed and one for crank position. The sensor for crank position uses a raised pin on the face of the flywheel for measurement and the sensor for speed uses the teeth on the fly wheel (one is missing).