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SMT6 wiring setups for those who with SMT6 now or soon

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    SMT6 wiring setups for those who with SMT6 now or soon

    Ok,

    I decided to make a little write up of it so sort out a few things
    I will use Colors for the SMT6 only and it will point to the corresponding M20 Wire as it should be buy as it´s in the bentley or other information ( I didn´t want to say anything specific here as wire numbers can change over the years )
    Installations details and directions follow the wiring information

    First : There are 2 diffrent basic ways of running a SMT6 on a M20 engine

    #1 : Original way by Perfect Power

    This version takes the ignition signal from the timing wheel or pre ´87 from the gearbox signal, problem sometimes is that the signal is weak and thus the SMT6 looses it´s ignition signal from time to time,

    SMT6 wires ----> Usage
    POWER AND GROUND
    RED >> switched power source (power to SMT6)
    BLACK >> solid ground (ground to SMT6)

    AFM Signal
    wire must be cut to be able to change anything
    cut wire end from afm connects to BLUE of the SMT6(Air metering input)
    VIOLET(air metering output) from SMT6 connects to the cut end on the ecu,

    Load signal
    The load signal on the M20 is the AFM signal
    connect the AFM signal to the BROWN (It´s now connected to BLUE and BROWN )

    Ignition

    Tap into wire first with the YELLOW(Ign in) then after have set the ignition information, you should start the engine and if the revs are accurate and you can drive the car this way, using the ignition to pickup RPM for the SMT6, you can cut the signal open,
    Signal end goes into YELLOW of SMT6
    Output from SMT6 is PINK and attaches again to the cut end of the signal wire going to the ECU, if SMT6 is correctly setup you should be able to start the car without any problems and change the ignition

    Global settings information for Version 1
    CYL : 6
    Teet per turn : 60
    Teeth per firing : 20
    Mode : 1
    System config
    Positive input : ON
    Positive output pol : ON
    low level input : ON


    #2 : Updated version by Perfect Power

    This version takes the ignition signal from the coil signal wich is a stable square wave signal and is very strong and easily tunable

    SMT6 wires ----> ECU plug number and description
    POWER AND GROUND
    RED >> switched power source (power to SMT6)
    BLACK >> solid ground (ground to SMT6)

    AFM Signal
    wire must be cut to be able to change anything
    cut wire end from afm connects to BLUE of the SMT6(Air metering input)
    VIOLET(air metering output) from SMT6 connects to the cut end on the ecu,

    Load signal
    The load signal on the M20 is the AFM signal
    connect the AFM signal to the BROWN (It´s now connected to BLUE and BROWN )

    Ignition
    Wire is the coil signal from the ecu to coil
    First tap into the wire and connect it to the YELLOW wire, you should see the revs
    on the software
    Cut the wire and attach the end from the ecu to the YELLOW wire also connect one BLACK/BLUE wire to the YELLOW wire (this is to juice up the singal a bit for the SMT6 to be able to send out a strong signal again)
    Attach the wire from the coil to the WHITE wire,
    you now have control over the ignition

    Global settings information for Version 2
    CYL : 6
    Teet per turn : 3
    Teeth per firing : 1
    Mode : 10
    System config
    Positive input : ON
    Positive output pol : ON
    low level input : OFF
    Interlace : OFF

    Installation instructions and guidelines

    I personally reccomend soldering all final connections for best durability and least distortion of the signals also use shrink tubes over the soldering

    Ignition installation
    First you tap into the signal wire to make sure that it´s usable,
    after you have come to the conclusion that is will work fine then you can cut it,

    Load signal :
    The E30 TPS is a switch not a variable resistance unit like later models have, altough you can retrofit one it´s not available to everybody to do so,
    Thus the SMT6 uses the AFM signal as a load signal, tuning will not be as easy as with a variable one but will work nonetheless

    Fuel Zero calibration :
    This is used primarily when you have installed a diffrent metering device that still uses the same princible, like a maf swap,
    If you swap in a MAF you can still use the zero cal. set to 0 but the map will be loaded with more numbers and may seem confusing, that´s why using the zero cal. to move the "0" in the map around to maintain a clean map helps

    Note on Motronic AFM readings, it has come to my attention that the ecu reads the afm signal difrently depending on TPS switch, there is a diffrence between AFM reading when the TPS is at Partial and WOT, also idle setting,,
    One trick we used first on stefáns car was to short the TPS to show the ECU idle at all times that made fuel tuning a cake, what changes it made to ignition is not known, so we do not reccomend that trick,,

    General tuning

    Not everybody agrees on what is the best AFR , but it seems to be close to 12.8-12.9
    aiming for that AFR is a good goal,
    side note on that issue : The SMT6 is designed to use a BOSCH semi wide O2 sensor and not a standard narrow sensor,,
    But you can still use the voltage readings from a narrow band to lean on when doing fuel tuning, as 12.8 is about 0.88V aiming for that voltage reading from the O2 during WOT would be ideal,,

    Ignition tuning,
    Retard is lower then 0
    Advance is greater the 0
    The 0´s don´t mean that the spark comes at TDC but it comes at the pre determined time from the ECU maps, thus -1 retards 1° from stock and so on,

    Hope this helps,
    Please ask your questions here so that other may benfit from them and the answeres as well,,
    Gunni
    @ Prodrive / Aston Martin Racing

    #2
    Great Gunni!! :P

    I'm printing this and will end to wire some missing cables.

    What you mean with:
    The SMT6 is designed to use a BOSCH semi wide O2 sensor and not a standard narrow sensor,,
    I mean, how can we know if we have the BOSCH semi wide 02 or the standar one...? Just counting the cables from the =2 sensor or what?

    Thanks like always ;)
    Euro M3'87 NogaroSilver/Euro E34 M5 '93/Porsche 993 TT 97' Euro/Porsche 993 Carrera 95' Euro/Skyline R33 GT-R

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by diegom6
      Great Gunni!! :P

      I'm printing this and will end to wire some missing cables.

      What you mean with:
      The SMT6 is designed to use a BOSCH semi wide O2 sensor and not a standard narrow sensor,,
      I mean, how can we know if we have the BOSCH semi wide 02 or the standar one...? Just counting the cables from the =2 sensor or what?

      Thanks like always ;)
      The semi wideband costs more then a narrow band for one,,
      also it outputs a diffrent voltage then a narrow band
      if you have a stock O2 you have a narrow band, it´s not until after ´91 that BMW moved to semi wide on their cars

      Narrow band can have from 1-4 cables so no luck there, also if you read the label or markings on your O2 sensor you can check them over the internet using google or similar to find out what you have
      Gunni
      @ Prodrive / Aston Martin Racing

      Comment


        #4
        How about wiring to install an external ignition system? Like an MSD 6A?
        MSD 6A ignition system wiring diagram:



        Can the SMT6 use square-wave output MAF's like those found on some older Fords?
        When doing a MAF swap the input from the MAF goes to the same input (BLUE wire) on the SMT6 like the AFM input would go?

        Recommended laptops that you should use with the SMT6?

        Ill think of more.

        Comment


          #5
          gunni, i rewired mine to the second method but now the tach doesnt work...the black wire that comes from the coil is also for the tachometer apparently...is there a way around this?

          Comment


            #6
            Gunni, is that why as soon the car reaches about 3k rpm the o2 reading goes below 11.6 ? At idle its at 14.5 or 14.6. if i give it gas it start to go down, but after 3k or so it kind stops reading. Any ideas ?

            Comment


              #7
              wow gunni, that's a good deal of info. The part that particular interested me is the new ignition method.

              I'll probably be talking to you about how I can do that with my 928 as i'm trying to get my SMT working there for retard under load.
              Michael Spiegle

              '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
              '99 M3 / Track Car
              '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
              '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

              Comment


                #8
                ok i tapped the wrong wire...; ) there are like 3 thick black wires that have wires running through them, im guessing the coil wire is in one of these...but oh, which one!?

                Comment


                  #9
                  I set up the ignition signal according to version two. i am getting a fairly accurate rpm signal but its not clean. It randomly spikes to 12000+rpm a couple times a second. is there any way to clean up the signal?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    what works for MS may also work for you, you can try adding a resistor to the crank sensor wire going into the SMT6, or a potentiometer. 10k is what we use.
                    Build thread

                    Bimmerlabs

                    Comment

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