regroung cams yay or nay

[oldskool3]

Hey guys a local guy is selling his 272 reground cam but I heard last night that they are not very good because they don't get the same lift as a actual 272 cam. Any opinions on this? I know I will need bigger exentrics from ie so is the cam a good mod or not. Thanks

[yozsi]

huh? not the same lift? why not? you actually think they dont add material? lol....

[oldskool3]

Thats why im asking for people's experiences with them. I was told by a knowledgable local last night that you don't get as much lift with the regorund cam because they have been ground done. thanks

[2002maniac]

that could be true, but most reground cams will be welded before grinding. i have used regrinds for years with no problems.

[StereoInstaller1]

most reground cams will be welded before grinding

you actually think they dont add material?

I used to do a bunch of work on Chevys. We often did regrinds, 'cause they are cheap, generally. I spent a couple of hours chatting with one of the guys from Oregon Cam, which is a big regrind house up here.

I asked about adding material to a cam. He said "No way, dude. You can't add material to a cam and have it end up as strong as original. It is only the ratio of lift vs. the diameter of the cam, so how big it is doesn't matter."

So with his explanation of how a cam is reground, it makes sense that they wouldn't need to add material. Cut and harden should do it.

In my own vehicles, I have logged about 80,000 miles on regrinds. In customers cars, likely 800,000. Never once have I had any issues, ever.

I am glad you guys brought this up. I need to replace my eccentrics. What a better time to do a cam swap! (like I will ever get time to do that!)

Luke

[oldskool3]

I used to do a bunch of work on Chevys. We often did regrinds, 'cause they are cheap, generally. I spent a couple of hours chatting with one of the guys from Oregon Cam, which is a big regrind house up here.

I asked about adding material to a cam. He said "No way, dude. You can't add material to a cam and have it end up as strong as original. It is only the ratio of lift vs. the diameter of the cam, so how big it is doesn't matter."

So with his explanation of how a cam is reground, it makes sense that they wouldn't need to add material. Cut and harden should do it.

In my own vehicles, I have logged about 80,000 miles on regrinds. In customers cars, likely 800,000. Never once have I had any issues, ever.

I am glad you guys brought this up. I need to replace my eccentrics. What a better time to do a cam swap! (like I will ever get time to do that!)

Luke

So in your opinion regrinds are fine? Thanks for all the info

[nando]

I think you will be dissapointed with the performance from a regrind, but whatever, it's your money..

[Rigmaster]

I think you will be dissapointed with the performance from a regrind, but whatever, it's your money..

Speaking from experience or just what you've heard?




They DON'T add material to the stock cam before grinding, they just grind it to a different profile than stock- usually to mimic or copy other performance cams.

You may or may not need bigger eccentrics, depending on the cam- with many of them you do NOT need bigger eccentrics.



IMHO (speaking from experience- M10 and M20 regrinds)- they are fine for most people, especially when the cost savings is taken into account.

If you're building a full-race motor that's gonna be highly stressed, you might want to save your pennies a little longer and go with something from a solid billet by Dr Schrick, not a regrind.

Bret.

[AdamF 88iS]

Speaking from experience or just what you've heard?




They DON'T add material to the stock cam before grinding, they just grind it to a different profile than stock- usually to mimic or copy other performance cams.

You may or may not need bigger eccentrics, depending on the cam- with many of them you do NOT need bigger eccentrics.



IMHO (speaking from experience- M10 and M20 regrinds)- they are fine for most people, especially when the cost savings is taken into account.

If you're building a full-race motor that's gonna be highly stressed, you might want to save your pennies a little longer and go with something from a solid billet by Dr Schrick, not a regrind.

Bret.

I agree with this. For something mild they are ok for the price, but if you're really building a beauty of a motor I'd get a real cam in there. Just remember- you get what you pay for.

[nando]

Speaking from experience or just what you've heard?




They DON'T add material to the stock cam before grinding, they just grind it to a different profile than stock- usually to mimic or copy other performance cams.

You may or may not need bigger eccentrics, depending on the cam- with many of them you do NOT need bigger eccentrics.



IMHO (speaking from experience- M10 and M20 regrinds)- they are fine for most people, especially when the cost savings is taken into account.

If you're building a full-race motor that's gonna be highly stressed, you might want to save your pennies a little longer and go with something from a solid billet by Dr Schrick, not a regrind.

Bret.

I have had both. even just looking at them side by side, there is no way you could say they are similar. the lobes on the regrind were PUNY.

[StereoInstaller1]

Regrinds always look puny. My old chev (roller rocker 350 w/vortek heads) got a 282 from Oregon Cam. Looked smaller than the stocker! Got all the lift it should, though.

It is the lift from the center of rotation that matters, not the size of the cam.

Yeah, I know that is what the girls say too.

Let me emphasize here that I have no experience with BMW regrinds, only V8 Chevy.

Luke