Replaced clutch, car won't turn over... HEEEELP!

[BigD]

Well I've heard people say use long extensions, and flexi joints. I've also heard tell of dropping the drive shaft and going in from behind. When I did mine I was fortunate enough to have the car in a location where I could get my air ratchet into it, it was pertty easy. The only problem was that there's a nut on the back or the top bolt, I used a piece of aluminum rod tohold it still (wedged it to keep it from rotating) while I loosened it and tightened it till it drew tight.

There's actually a nut on both bolts (on mine anyway) and the only way I got to them was by turning the transmisson on its side (obviously with the exhaust and driveshaft dropped) but I ain't doing it that way again. My friend who's large as well says that you can remove the starter from the inside... I have the huge extensions from dropping the clutch so reach is not a problem. I can get to the nuts. But holding the bolts... maybe I can get a crescent wrench in there...

Can anyone tell me for sure how the starter solenoid works? Does the solenoid fire when you power the two terminals? Or would that just make the starter go? And if so, what makes the solenoid fire? What is that top wire for? Is that to actuate the solenoid? If so how can I check that it's working?

[BigD]

Yesterday I push started the car to confirm that the clutch install was at least good, man the eta has pretty damn good punch at low revs, no effort to light up the rubber. I can't wait to try this thing on the track.

Anyway, with that peace of mind, I asked my wife to crank the car while I listened in the engine comp to confirm that it's the starter winding up. And it's not. There is no noise coming from the starter, I'm either deaf and it's the fuel pump firing when she turns it to the start position, or maybe a supplementary fuel pump inside the engine bay or something.

I tried to remove the little wire off the pin at the top to be sure and it made no difference.

I assume this pin is what actually triggers the solenoid? According to Bentley, only after the solenoid engages, does it power the starter, which is why I was able to trigger the starter by jumping the poles.

So I'm back to my original scenario, either the solenoid is fried or it's not getting the signal...

Any help guys, please? How can I test the signal wire? What should I see on it when the key is turned to start?

[redhatpat]

I don't know is this applies to a bmw, but on most cars the solenoid won't trigger if the battery voltage is low. Have you checked if the battery is still in good shape?

[BigD]

No the battery was fully charged a few days before I began the clutch job. Plus in my experience bmw's will crank all the way until the battery dies. And at that point you can see if the battery is dying because the cluster will start shutting down (like rpms going to 0). Mine shows no bad symptoms other than the starting.

[lordofthewaters]

Are you sure that your starter/engine ground is in place and is good? Try putting one negative clamp of your jumper cables on the oil pan drain plug and the other negative on a well grounded place, like a bolt head on your steering rack and try to turn it over.

[BigD]

Are you sure that your starter/engine ground is in place and is good? Try putting one negative clamp of your jumper cables on the oil pan drain plug and the other negative on a well grounded place, like a bolt head on your steering rack and try to turn it over.

Yeah because I can make the starter wind up by putting a screwdriver across the solenoid poles. At first I thought this is a sign of a dead solenoid and while it may yet be dead, I now don't think so. Bentley says that the solenoid won't power the starter until it is done extending, and since it is always powered something needs to tell it to extend, and the only thing that makes sense is that little wire that plugs on the top flat pin. I'm gonna pick up a multimeter finally but I need to know what to look for there. Like is it supposed to get battery voltage, in which case I can try to short the little pin with the main battery lead on the right pin... or is it a digital logic type of signal (ie 5 volts)...

[lordofthewaters]

But did you check the engine ground that runs from the frame to the oil pan as well? If that is not right the starter will act like the solenoid is bad. Hence my statement about using your jumpers. Also is it an automatic? As far as specific voltages for the wires other than the battery, running from the switch to the starter I'm not sure.

[BigD]

But did you check the engine ground that runs from the frame to the oil pan as well? If that is not right the starter will act like the solenoid is bad. Hence my statement about using your jumpers. Also is it an automatic? As far as specific voltages for the wires other than the battery, running from the switch to the starter I'm not sure.

No it's a 5spd (hence the need to replace the clutch to begin with ;)). If the engine wasn't grounded, how could the starter fire up when I jump the poles. I also figured the big cast iron block is plenty ground... It's definitely possible I pinched something off because I tilted the engine pretty far back with a jack under the oil pan, the engine fan was like a half inch higher than the shroud edge.

I just figured the ground was ok because there are no other electrical issues, I started the car by pushstarting it and it ran/drove just fine.

I hope you're right, I'm praying that it's something this simple...!

[lordofthewaters]

Yeah. You did say you were replacing the clutch. Brain fart I guess. Give that a try. Takes 5 minutes, and can't hurt. We're kind of just shooting blind when we're not there, to see what's going on and what went on.

[BigD]

Yeah. You did say you were replacing the clutch. Brain fart I guess. Give that a try. Takes 5 minutes, and can't hurt. We're kind of just shooting blind when we're not there, to see what's going on and what went on.

Yeah I know what you mean, I wish I had everything on video as I planned so I could show exactly what went on so I wouldn't have to guess.

Would the engine push-start though with a bad ground? And how could I wind up the starter motor by jumping the solenoid pegs if the ground is bad?

Thank you for the info!

[lordofthewaters]

I think it would push start, if there isn't some larger issue to prevent it.

Mine did something similar late last year and it gave me fits, not to dissimilar from yours (mine's an auto though, so no push starting) and it took me forever to figure out that it was that piddly little ground causing my problems.

[BigD]

I'll check it after work. If this is the problem IOU 1 blowjob (never tried before but I sure know what a good one is like so I bet I could be darn good). Or just a very heartfelt thank you!

[lordofthewaters]

mmm.......I think I'd rather have the thank you........Unless your significant other is hot, and you can convince her.................anyway I can't guarantee it'll work, but it's so quick and easy a thing to look over it's worth 5 minutes to see.

[BigD]

mmm.......I think I'd rather have the thank you........Unless your significant other is hot, and you can convince her.................anyway I can't guarantee it'll work, but it's so quick and easy a thing to look over it's worth 5 minutes to see.

I'm so nervous I'm gonna ditch work early and go try... where is the grounding strap? An article I found says it's on the lower rear valve cover bolt... this would make sense as I did tilt the engine back far and it could have gotten pinched...

[lordofthewaters]

Well on mine it run from the oil pan to the frame on the driver's side. It's an 89 325i though, so it may be a bit different. It shouldn't be hard to find.