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    Car Dies at Light

    I got an 86' 325es back in February. Since I drove it I discovered what all the hype was about. It's had a lot of work done from:
    885 head, wiring harness, gasket kit
    Rebuild fuel injectors
    270 regrind cam
    ect...

    It recently died on me while waiting at the light, and wouldn't restart. I noticed after about 30min, it restarted and drove fine for about 15/20 min and then the problem would occur again.

    After doing some research I came to a few conclusions.
    1.My main fuel pump relays
    2. Distributor rotor + cap

    If i'm overlooking anything, please let me know. Any other suggestions are welcomed.




    In my car, [I'm a winner and winners... we don't listen to words like "no" or "don't" or "stop!"]

    #2
    Originally posted by Est817 View Post

    If i'm overlooking anything, please let me know. Any other suggestions are welcomed.




    you suck.

    Will the car idle at all?

    If it starts then dies, can you r3v it and will it fight you or will it smooth out?

    Can you do a burnout?

    Do you know how to post pics?
    Simon
    Current Cars:
    -1966 Lotus Elan
    -1986 German Car
    -2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

    Make R3V Great Again -2020

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
      you suck.

      Will the car idle at all?

      If it starts then dies, can you r3v it and will it fight you or will it smooth out?

      Can you do a burnout?

      Do you know how to post pics?
      Car struggles a bit when idling.

      When I rev it, it does fight.

      [IMG][/IMG]

      In my car, [I'm a winner and winners... we don't listen to words like "no" or "don't" or "stop!"]

      Comment


        #4
        I would suggest not stopping at any lights until the issue is resolved.

        Do you know if/how the ECU is tuned for the different head and cam? Rebuilt OEM injectors or something else? Is it a "soft" or a "hard" miss? Soft meaning the car loses a bit of power, but still runs somewhat, and hard meaning a total loss of power, even momentarily.
        Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

        Elva Courier build thread here!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
          I would suggest not stopping at any lights until the issue is resolved.

          Do you know if/how the ECU is tuned for the different head and cam? Rebuilt OEM injectors or something else? Is it a "soft" or a "hard" miss? Soft meaning the car loses a bit of power, but still runs somewhat, and hard meaning a total loss of power, even momentarily.
          I helped him with the 2.7i build, though it was assembled by a knowledgeable friend. ECU & wiring harness is the 173 & Motronic 1.3. Injectors are M20B25 blues that were rebuilt by MEPEH. The tune is a no-name cam (that I dont think he's installed yet). Its temp fix until we can get the correct chip, but now its trying to get the car to a reliable point.

          Not sure about the other stuff, I havent seen the car lately
          Simon
          Current Cars:
          -1966 Lotus Elan
          -1986 German Car
          -2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

          Make R3V Great Again -2020

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
            I helped him with the 2.7i build, though it was assembled by a knowledgeable friend. ECU & wiring harness is the 173 & Motronic 1.3. Injectors are M20B25 blues that were rebuilt by MEPEH. The tune is a no-name cam (that I dont think he's installed yet). Its temp fix until we can get the correct chip, but now its trying to get the car to a reliable point.

            Not sure about the other stuff, I havent seen the car lately
            I see. I'm not super well-read on the swap, but a soft miss would suggest a fuel delivery issue and a hard miss would suggest electrical. OP, you may want to look into that as a next diagnostic step.
            Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

            Elva Courier build thread here!

            Comment


              #7
              sounds like a fuel pressure issue.. either your fuel pressure regulator or there's a check valve as part of the fuel pump. Does your fuel pump(s) make a loud grainy sound?


              it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

              Comment


                #8
                It only dies at idle? Once it dies it will just crank and not start until 30 minutes later?
                BMW tech
                Umass Amherst
                05 wrx sti

                Comment


                  #9
                  It completely dies at the idle. and then has troubles restarting/staying on.
                  after a good 15 - 30 min wait, it'll start back up no problem, and stay on for a bit before dying again. fuel pump does make a grainy sound. I'm thinking it's a fuel pressure issue. after looking into it, it seems to point to that more and more.
                  In my car, [I'm a winner and winners... we don't listen to words like "no" or "don't" or "stop!"]

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Maybe also a fuel tank vent issue? Fuel pressure goes negative because the vent isn't letting any/enough air in, then it slowly equalizes while sitting.
                    Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

                    Elva Courier build thread here!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      updates?
                      Simon
                      Current Cars:
                      -1966 Lotus Elan
                      -1986 German Car
                      -2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

                      Make R3V Great Again -2020

                      Comment

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