Removing Tranny, need help

[krisco]

My E30 came with a vibration damper. Is there some offset tool to hold the 3 nuts connecting the 3 bolts from the driveshaft to the tranny output flange? The damper allows me to put no regular socket or wrench to hold the nuts steady. TIA
Kris

[Jon325i]

Kris-

I just did a clutch job on my '89 325i last weekend, so I can probably offer a bit of assistance. In regards to removing the part you're talking about, your best bet is using some open-end wrenches or boxes wrenches as well as a socket with an extension. This is what I did and I had the driveshaft removed in no time. Its easier to remove the bolts that attach the guibo to the output flange at the back of the tranny versus trying to remove the guibo from the front end of the driveshaft.

Also, set the e-brake when you want to loosen these bolts up. It will keep the shaft from spinning and thus save you some frustration.

Jon

[krisco]

I went to Sears and got some deep offset box-end, and the driveshaft is off. I'll keep you posted if I run into any other problems. Thanks

[DORIGTT]

What's the trick to getting the tranny to engine bolts removed? Or even better yet, how the heck do we remove the starter eh? That assembly & hardware are absolutely vexing me! I'm trying to remove the engine and tranny and I figured it'd be easier to remove the engine and trans separately. Good or bad idea?

[Beej '86 325es]

I'm trying to remove the engine and tranny and I figured it'd be easier to remove the engine and trans separately. Good or bad idea?

Going by what others have said when doing engine swaps, it is easier to remove them together.

[Jon325i]

If you plan on pulling out the engine and tranny from you car, keep them together and remove all at once. Believe it or not, its actually much easier this way than trying to remove one at a time.

Now if you needed to do just a clutch job, dropping the tranny is all you need to do. The Torx bolts along the top of the bellhousing as well as the starter bolts can be a real pain in the ass. A socket driver with extension and universal joints makes it easier. You will want to use a long-handled driver too for leverage purposes.....much like a breaker bar.

Lastly, if you have someone to assist you then the whole process will be easier. Especially if your assistant has smaller hands to reach into those difficult areas like I mentioned.

Jon

[DORIGTT]

So basically I just unbolt the driveshaft, unclip the shifter and unbolt the trans and engine mounts (after all the fuel lines, electrical and such are disconnected) then voila! Yank that sucker out eh?

[Jon325i]

So basically I just unbolt the driveshaft, unclip the shifter and unbolt the trans and engine mounts (after all the fuel lines, electrical and such are disconnected) then voila! Yank that sucker out eh?

Pretty much. With all engine & tranny connections undone (wires, hoses, A/C, etc.) the engine/tranny assembly rests on the two engine mounts up front (on the cross member) and supported in the back with the two tranny mounts bolted to the small cross brace that spans the tunnel.

Loosen those up and rig up a chain to the proper lifting points on the engine and hoist it out. Pull the radiator beforehand so you have the needed clearance to get it out.

Jon

[krisco]

Well, I got a cold for a few days but I'm on the road torecovery so back to the clutch job. I only have the one Torx bolt, opposite side of the starter on the top of the bell housing to unscrew but can't seem to fashion a way to do it. I've tried all the different combinations of U. joints/extensions I can think of, there seems to be no space to work with this bolt. I would really rather not pull both engine and tran seeing as I have one bolt left and don't have an engine hoist. Is there anything to unhook with the shift linkage besides the circlip? This is getting very frustrating. :x

[DORIGTT]

Thanks for the advice! Tranny and engine removed!!!

[Avus_325is]

Well, I got a cold for a few days but I'm on the road torecovery so back to the clutch job. I only have the one Torx bolt, opposite side of the starter on the top of the bell housing to unscrew but can't seem to fashion a way to do it. I've tried all the different combinations of U. joints/extensions I can think of, there seems to be no space to work with this bolt. I would really rather not pull both engine and tran seeing as I have one bolt left and don't have an engine hoist. Is there anything to unhook with the shift linkage besides the circlip? This is getting very frustrating. :x

Try undoing the motor mounts from the block and lowering the engine a bit, should give you the necessary clearance.