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    #31
    Well my flex disk started thumping today. I knew it was going.

    I had ordered that and the center bearing three weeks ago.
    I was waiting for work from someplace, like Pelican I had e-mailed for info on shift bushings so that I could do all that junk in one shot. But no, so here I am with no choice.
    Man.. damn..
    82 VW Caddy LX, 1.9L AAZ 398K
    81 VW Caddy LX, 1.6L Diesel, 650K (gone)
    87 Volvo 745ti M46 (gone)
    86 Saab 9000ti (gone)
    90 BMW 325i, 233K (gone)
    83 Mercedes Benz 300D, 283K (gone)
    86 Mercedes 300SDL 365K (gone)
    73 Mercedes 280 (gone)
    86 VW Cabriolet, 168K (gone)

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      #32
      Originally posted by rumatt
      Even worse, the guy scratched out 5 of the part numbers, and wrote in a new one. :idea: WTF? He had my VIN number so he was trying to do the right thing, but now I don't know who to trust, him or realeom.com

      What a pain in the ass. I just want a kit that has all these parts.

      EDIT: It looks like all of his part numbers line up with realoem.com when I enter my vin. I was using a car from a few months off and they are different. There is only one of his part numbers that I can't figure out, and that's #6, the plastic cup. He gave me 25111469397.
      Apparently BMW comes out with new part #'s that supersede old numbers.
      I've often ordered stuff by part # off my old ETK parts CD and received the correct part but with a different # on the invoice.

      I dunno why nobody has plugged them yet, but BMA is one of our preferred providers, and they can get all of the shifter stuff.

      Tell Patrick we like you, and you might get a discount. ;)

      We specialize in import auto parts


      patrick@bmaparts.com

      (888) BMA-3911 or (888) 262-3911
      Monday - Friday 8:30am - 5:00pm PST
      Saturday 9:30am - 1:30pm PST

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        #33
        Originally posted by Den
        Apparently BMW comes out with new part #'s that supersede old numbers.
        I've often ordered stuff by part # off my old ETK parts CD and received the correct part but with a different # on the invoice.

        I dunno why nobody has plugged them yet, but BMA is one of our preferred providers, and they can get all of the shifter stuff.
        Thanks for the info.

        If Patrick is competetive with Pacific BMW, I'll give him a try. Anyone know if it's worth my effort to call him, or is he more expensive?

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          #34
          How hard it is to replace #2, process?

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            #35
            Originally posted by rumatt
            Thanks for the info.

            If Patrick is competetive with Pacific BMW, I'll give him a try. Anyone know if it's worth my effort to call him, or is he more expensive?
            I doubt any DEALER would be cheaper.
            There's a reason why BMA is a preferred provider.

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by rwh11385
              How hard it is to replace #2, process?
              #2 is what the posts above discuss replacing with a delrin bushing.
              Unfortunatley, #2 is secured by #3, the infamous 'bitch clip,' which is a total PITA to remove with the transmission in the car.

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                #37
                Here's my order, complete with part numbers and the price from Pacific BMW. I thought about calling BMA, but it's not worth wasting another person's time getting a quote on so many parts.

                My car is a Sept 89 build, 1990 325is, and except for #7 below, the part numbers line up with those on realoem.com for my vehicle. Also notice that the linkage picture for my car has is slighlty different than Sean's picture, and has different index numbering.. It makes it pretty confusing.

                1x 25111434148 $37.45 z3 shifter

                3. 1x 25111221849 $5.92 BEARING BOLT
                4. 1x 25111220707 $13.73 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM
                5. 1x 07129946400 $0.26 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT
                7*. 1x 25111469397 $7.60 each BEARING, SHIFT LEVER (*PN from Circle BMW. I don't know why it's different than that in realoem.com)
                8. 1x 25111220912 $9.14 RUBBER BOOT
                12 2x 25111220439 $1.02 each WASHER, PLASTIC 10X16X0,9/GELB 2 06/1986 09/1989
                13 1x 25111220379 $0.70 CIRCLIP ZNS3
                14 1x 25117503525 $15.07 GEARSHIFT ROD JOINT
                15. 2x 25111221243 $1.24 each O-RING 10X2,2
                16. 1x 25111220439 $0.51 SPACER RING
                18. 1x 23411466134 $0.60 DOWEL PIN 1
                19. 1x 25111203682 $1.50 TENSION BUSH
                20. 1x 25111434194 $0.50 WASHER, PLASTIC
                23. 1x 25111220837 $0.37 CABLE CLAMP 2 06/1986 09/1989

                Total: $96.94

                I also added the Drelin bushings from UUC for an extra $25.00. That prevented me from purchasing part #2.

                Doh! This place doesn't support attached pictures? The picture of the linkage for my car (and these index numbers) is here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3734722&postcount=39[/img]

                Comment


                  #38
                  Phuck! One of my parts is wrong. I ordered the one on the left, but the one on the right is what came off my car. If I used the new one, there would be 1/4 inch of play in the selector rod.

                  Pacific BMW claims the one on the left (PN 25117503525) is the correct part for my car, and couldn't offer any advice on why it doesn't fit. :twisted:

                  Any suggestions? Click me for pic

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Tell them to STFU and make them order what you want.

                    Tell them you're not stupid, and you know what you're getting.

                    That may be the one for the sheet metal shift carrier, I don't know. But, you want the one on the right, if you have the aluminum shift carrier.
                    - Sean Hayes

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by Sean
                      Tell them to STFU and make them order what you want.

                      Tell them you're not stupid, and you know what you're getting.

                      That may be the one for the sheet metal shift carrier, I don't know. But, you want the one on the right, if you have the aluminum shift carrier.
                      Yeah, I should have done this, but I didn't. I really wanted to get the car back on the road, and the part was only $15.00.

                      I found a washer in my garage that was almost the perfect size. I used it to fill the gap on the selector shaft, between the part that is too short, and the c-clip on the end. It seemed to work pretty damn well, so I went with it. Worst case, it falls apart in a few months, and I replace it. I can live with that (but it won't. there's no real stress on the filler parts I added). I have a pic, but nowhere to host it or attach it. (damn, I need to get myself a place to host pics).

                      Overall the shifter rebuild was a success. The action is MUCH better now. There is still a bit of lateral play in the shifter, but I confirmed that it's actually in the transmission (the selector rod coming out of the transmission is turning just slightly), not in the linkage. It's only about 0.5" of play at the top of the shift knob, so I can live with that.

                      The Z3 shifter is a definite improvement, but still not super short. I may change the shift knob to something smaller at some point, and I think it will be perfect then. I'd say the Z3 shifter was short enough for me for two reasons: 1) I'm looking for functionality, not cool-factor. The longer handle gives me plenty of feel, and control. 2) my synchro's aren't great, so getting into 1st and 2nd gear takes a tad more force than is ideal. The Z3 shifter already allows me to shift as fast as I'm comfortable making the synchros work.

                      I was really suffering with the bitch clip, but I did figure out a great way to get it off. The UUC directions suggestion to use the edge of the screw driver was simply NEVER going to work. The clip went up a few millimeters, then would stop firmly. I managed to slide the clip laterally to the left, then get a screw driver over the pin, but under the top of the clip. I then had perfect leverge to pull down the handle, pushing the clip up. I can't really explain it in words. Maybe I should try to rig up a diagram. It required a lot of force to pop it up.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by Sean View Post
                        You don't really need a new selector rod unless your's is broken or something.

                        Ok, looking at that picture, I replaced the following items (including part numbers):

                        2 - x1 - 25 11 1 220 832
                        - I replaced the above crappy rubber thing with delrin bushings from UUC - a LOT more solid, for an extra $30, its worth it! ( http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ )

                        3 - x1 - 25 11 1 221 849
                        - Not really required, a new one came from UUC, so I used it. Wouldn't hurt to replace it tho, so it's clean.

                        6 - x1 - 25 11 1 220 600
                        - Definately replace this. Probably will break the old one getting it out.

                        7 - x1 - 25 11 1 220 912
                        - Fairly cheap, doesn't hurt to replace.

                        8 - x1 - 25 11 1 220 707
                        - Definately replace this.

                        11 - x2 - 25 11 1 220 439

                        12 - x1 - 25 11 1 220 379

                        13 - x1 - 25 11 7 501 309

                        14 - x2 - 25 11 1 220 243
                        - These little rubber things stabalize the selector rod joint from moving around, very important for tight linkage.

                        15 - x1 - 25 11 1 220 199

                        16 - x1 - 07 11 9 932 863

                        19 - x1 - 25 11 1 434 194
                        - This isn't a washer. it's like a little squishy thing. Get it damp with oil before putting it in between the selector rod joint and selector shaft.

                        .....
                        can we please do a part number check on # 3,7 ,14 ,15 ,16. I can't seem to find these by neither part number, kits or online.

                        EDIT: Reason: nm i verified the part #'s. still can't find anyone that sells # 3,7 ,14 ,15 ,16. I dont really need 3. but would like the rest of them
                        No more e30s for me.
                        88 black BMW OBDII 332is dedicated track [sold]
                        88 BMW OBDII bronzit 332is [RIP 03/08]
                        91 BMW 325i [sold]
                        86 Corolla 'Ae86' HB 20v trd [sold]
                        http://youtube.com/watch?v=pTj7Hn9v5Rs

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by etxxz View Post
                          EDIT: Reason: nm i verified the part #'s. still can't find anyone that sells # 3,7 ,14 ,15 ,16. I dont really need 3. but would like the rest of them
                          UUC Gave me a brand new #3 (bitch clip) with my Delrin bushings. I'm pretty sure they send you a new one with them.

                          #7, 14, 15, 16:You can probably get from a parts house like BMAparts.com (amazing service as you've heard) / AutoHausAZ.com (local and ships very fast to me, plus very fair prices).

                          #16 I believe can be substituted with just another circlip/c-clip since I don't see it in the diagram. I've taken apart linkage on a few cars and they all seem to vary. I've seen cars with small rubber bushings or metal spacers that look like small bearings, some have more than others, or some have very few.
                          Project Thread | Instagram | Phoenix, Arizona Events Thread

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by DEV0 E30 View Post
                            UUC Gave me a brand new #3 (bitch clip) with my Delrin bushings. I'm pretty sure they send you a new one with them.

                            #7, 14, 15, 16:You can probably get from a parts house like BMAparts.com (amazing service as you've heard) / AutoHausAZ.com (local and ships very fast to me, plus very fair prices).

                            #16 I believe can be substituted with just another circlip/c-clip since I don't see it in the diagram. I've taken apart linkage on a few cars and they all seem to vary. I've seen cars with small rubber bushings or metal spacers that look like small bearings, some have more than others, or some have very few.
                            thanks for the review! seems like that bitch clip will get reused. no prob.

                            BUT the reason for my post is because bma and authausAZ don't have 7, 14, 15, 16. i spend all night looking for part numbers in every way and that i know how to. So, if anyone knows please holla


                            EDIT: got it!

                            Pelican Parts specializes in OEM-Quality Replacement and Performance Parts for Porsche, Mercedes-Benz, BMW, MINI and other European Vehicles


                            they have a system that searches for partial part numbers and then spits out the real part number an a few extra characters. I used these part numbers in a bunch of other sites and it doesnt work so...pelican it is
                            Last edited by etxxz; 01-03-2007, 11:24 AM.
                            No more e30s for me.
                            88 black BMW OBDII 332is dedicated track [sold]
                            88 BMW OBDII bronzit 332is [RIP 03/08]
                            91 BMW 325i [sold]
                            86 Corolla 'Ae86' HB 20v trd [sold]
                            http://youtube.com/watch?v=pTj7Hn9v5Rs

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