Originally posted by darien28
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Head studs for turbo m20
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Adam Fogg- '88 M3
Common sense- It's the new 'gifted'
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Originally posted by iXerIt's all about having controlled combustion, the original pistons can handle it. At least use a good piggy-back system or replace the entire ECU with something that gives you total control. Use an EGT gauge and wide-band lambda if you really want to have the best power without sacrificing stability. If you didn't understand what I just said, you need to
study. The better the design of the system (wastegate, IC, dump, manifolds) the less boost you have to run to achieve a given power.
In stock form, 1 bar is too much in my opinion.. 0.5 bar (7.25 psi) is not a problem and gives you a healthy power increase, and is what I would run. But if you don't have control over fuel and ignition.. you can destroy any engine with detonation.
The shape of the combustion chamber formed by the M20-head and pistons are not safe for high pressure forced induction and you risk detonation if you increase pressures too much, it needs pistons shaped for forced induction and some head work to decrease the risk. The M50 engine has a better shape in the stock combustion chamber and has less chance of detonation. This is what I've read on swedish racing forums..
interesting that you are making as much power as matt with a 2.5 and less boost....i'd like some more information on your setup, sound like its really efficient.
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I said it's what I would use, I haven't actually implemented it and I never claimed any exact power increase.. But I know several technically sound turbo E30s. Matts car is a great piece of work, he knows what he's doing. I doubt that I ever will turbo my iX because of the legal ramifications of that modification here in Sweden..
There are some who have turboed their iX:es around here, and they have no problem with the drive line holding up. But no drive line is bullet proof; with no tension in the drive line and then dropping the clutch carelessly with high revs on the engine from stand still, is never a good idea, especially with the iX. The weak point is the front drive shaft splines where it meets the transfer case and the front differential. The splines can be fixed either by extending them (metal shop) or by using washers on the guibo bolts to extend the splines further into the transfer case. The front differential is tricky, I've heard of people replacing the gears with tougher ones to strengthen the setup, but the gears are hard to come by.
The transfer case is quite tough, the chain seems to be the major item that gets worn out (stretched).
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okay thats pretty much what i thought, the turbo setup is a ways away. I don't have time to work on it at all, and i need to do more research before i start ordering all the parts. I think i have all the mechanical stuff worked out, i just have to figure out all the tuning and how i am going to do that.
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