Ignition issues -- relay? Ignition switch? -- SOLVED

[Nairb]

Please view this short video on this issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mf_481_gCZI

My car is suddenly acting weird when I go to turn it over. When it goes into "ON position 1" my radio works, everything works fine, I can use all my lights, etc. When I start to turn it to "ON position 2," there is a "click" noise and then everything disengages. No radio, no lights on dash, etc. Sometimes it will flicker.

I have checked/replaced fuses as needed, and I only found one that actually looked like it needed to be replaced. I have both original keys for my e30, and I have tried them both, to no avail.

My fam (mechanics) are telling me that I "just need to keep wiggling the key because it's corroded in the ignition" but I have tried that and the symptoms do not change.

Anyone with experience with this issue, do I need a new ignition? Ignition relay?

I just wanna drive my carrrrrrrrr :blowup:

Thank you!

[Jaxx_]

Looking at your video I would think it is an ignition switch issue. If you want to test the theory, put the key in 2(run) and check for 12V power on the Green wire at the auxiliary fuse box. It is a direct link to the output of the ignition switch.

You can do this with a Digital Multimeter if you have one, or a simple 12v light bulb with leads attached to each end. The other lead should go to ground somewhere. I suspect the strut tower bolts will be the easiest location for the purposes of the test.

If you have power, look to swap relay(s).

[Nairb]

Will do! Thanks for the quick reply.

[Nairb]

So it did indeed turn out to be the ignition switch. I ordered an ignition switch (OEM 61321377069) off of amazon for about $74.

After I exposed the ignition switch, I could tell that it was easily the most corroded thing in there. The soldered points were all corroded. I guess the humid Southwest Florida air got to it after all these years. After removing the ignition switch, I found that the plastic piece that joins with the ignition was notched heavily due to wear, because the ignition is metal and the ignition switch is plastic. It does feel that the overall ignition and turnover is much better, and the car is back to perfect turnovers again.

Thanks for the help.

[jeffnhiscars]

Just a word of caution...Amazon is riddled with counterfeit parts. AMHIK

[Nairb]

Just a word of caution...Amazon is riddled with counterfeit parts. AMHIK

I agree, but I've ordered from this seller before and they were all high quality OEM. Here's a link to their seller page, says its BMW/Mini of San Francisco:

https://www.amazon.com/sp?_encoding=UTF8&asin=&isAmazonFulfilled=&isCBA=&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&orderID=&seller=A1B8X1W281T72Y&tab=&vasStoreID=

[jniuk]

Hey! I think I might be having similar issues - was your ignition or fueling also affected? Sometimes I get the power cutoff like you, but when my car does run, it runs really rich.

[Nairb]

Mine was completely no start due to the ignition switch in the steering column being badly corodded and worn out. Once I replaced it, it was back to new.