Wrong Clutch Master Cylinder?
I appreciate anyone who takes the time to read the following and potentially shed some light on my situation.
So I am in the closing stages of my S52/Zf swap into my 90 325i. The last bit of hold up is my clutch. I had driven the car in an out of garage after the completion of the swap towards October of last year. I decided to swap the clutch line from the rubber to SS braided line. I did not bleed the clutch over the winter as there was not a real reason to as the car was just going to sit in the garage.
Fast forward to this summer. I had a slave cylinder dowel(that presses into the clutch fork) eject into the bell housing. Thankfully, it got caught on the slave rubber gasket and was able to just replace it. Figured maybe there was just too much air in the system. I figured I might as well replace the clutch master, the soft line from the reservoir to the clutch master, and the hard line from the clutch master to the SS braided line before I tried again
I reverse bled the system to hopefully get past any air in the system issues. I had much more pedal feel, opposed to the first time I bled it. However, another dowel was ejected into the bell housing. Due to not having time in the coming month and just being sick of the issue with the car I sent it to a buddies shop.
I had them replace the brake master while they were at it hopefully eliminate other issues. So the whole system has been replace at this point. Brake master, booster, soft clutch line, master cylinder, hard line, SS braided line, new slave cylinder. They found the pedal mount box was cracked slightly so they welded that back. They bled the system 4 times. Still not working fully. I have the FX racing stage 1 clutch kit, Sachs ToB, and OEM pilot bearing.
I'm being told that the clutch pedal does begin to disengage the clutch until it is halfway down, the top of the pedal stroke is dead. Once it gets to the floor, it still needs to go further to fully disengage the clutch. The assumption is that the wrong clutch master cylinder was installed. And that might be correct, this is the one I purchased. I just realized the URL says E36 in it. It looks like this is the E30 one. I'm guessing I was probably looking through the E36 RealOEM catalog opposed to the E30 one. E36 drivetrain in E30 chassis means back and forth between the two a lot.
Would this make a big enough difference to be having this issue? Any other ideas for what the issue could be? I assumed it could be something wrong in the bell housing, but the car had drove under its own power before, granted it was only up and down the driveway.
Thanks for reading.
So I am in the closing stages of my S52/Zf swap into my 90 325i. The last bit of hold up is my clutch. I had driven the car in an out of garage after the completion of the swap towards October of last year. I decided to swap the clutch line from the rubber to SS braided line. I did not bleed the clutch over the winter as there was not a real reason to as the car was just going to sit in the garage.
Fast forward to this summer. I had a slave cylinder dowel(that presses into the clutch fork) eject into the bell housing. Thankfully, it got caught on the slave rubber gasket and was able to just replace it. Figured maybe there was just too much air in the system. I figured I might as well replace the clutch master, the soft line from the reservoir to the clutch master, and the hard line from the clutch master to the SS braided line before I tried again
I reverse bled the system to hopefully get past any air in the system issues. I had much more pedal feel, opposed to the first time I bled it. However, another dowel was ejected into the bell housing. Due to not having time in the coming month and just being sick of the issue with the car I sent it to a buddies shop.
I had them replace the brake master while they were at it hopefully eliminate other issues. So the whole system has been replace at this point. Brake master, booster, soft clutch line, master cylinder, hard line, SS braided line, new slave cylinder. They found the pedal mount box was cracked slightly so they welded that back. They bled the system 4 times. Still not working fully. I have the FX racing stage 1 clutch kit, Sachs ToB, and OEM pilot bearing.
I'm being told that the clutch pedal does begin to disengage the clutch until it is halfway down, the top of the pedal stroke is dead. Once it gets to the floor, it still needs to go further to fully disengage the clutch. The assumption is that the wrong clutch master cylinder was installed. And that might be correct, this is the one I purchased. I just realized the URL says E36 in it. It looks like this is the E30 one. I'm guessing I was probably looking through the E36 RealOEM catalog opposed to the E30 one. E36 drivetrain in E30 chassis means back and forth between the two a lot.
Would this make a big enough difference to be having this issue? Any other ideas for what the issue could be? I assumed it could be something wrong in the bell housing, but the car had drove under its own power before, granted it was only up and down the driveway.
Thanks for reading.
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