Wierd starting issue

[Digitalwave]

(this is with my 97 328i, not an E30).

I was driving around running errands today when I stopped by the auto parts store to pick up some bulbs. I shut the car off and left the lights and stereo on to fiddle with the brake lights that (I thought) were out. They weren't actually burnt out so I messed with them for 5-10 minutes before going in the store. When I came back out and was ready to leave, the car wouldn't start.

It made a strange rapid clicking noise and cut all the lights out when I tried to turn it over. I did this a few times and the car obviously wasn't firing, but there was at least some response when I turned the key. I called a friend and had him come jump the car. It had no affect, it still made that rapid clicking noise.

He had a tow strap and we were right around the corner from my house so he towed me. For shits and giggles I kick started the car during the tow and it was fine. I drove it around for 20 minutes to see if I could charge the battery up or something. When I brought it home and shut it off, I tried restarting it and it fired right up.

Any ideas what could have caused that? The only thing I can really think of was that the starter solenoid was frozen for one reason or another.

[lordofthewaters]

Could be a bad/dying solenoid. But it sounds to me like you need to check your grounds. Especially the one running from the frame to the oil pan. If it's broken, or deteriorating it'll make and break connections like that. I probably will look just fine, but can still be bad inside the rubber coating. Had it happen to me once, and it took a month before I thought to check it.

[Digitalwave]

Cool, I'll check that one out when I have the car jacked up this week. The ground terminal on the battery was actually loose, but tightening it down didn't help the situation when the car wasn't starting (I tightened it before we tried to jump it).

[mtechnik]

hope she continues to run smoothly. You just got her 8)

[AdamF 88iS]

Make sure all battery connections and major grounds are good and tight. You'd be surprised how a *slightly* loose battery cable can kill the car.

As far as your bulbs- get new ones of those black bulb sockets. And make sure you have the silver bottomed bulbs. Brass bottom ones will trigger the check controller. If it still does it after that you probably need the whole light assembly due to corrosion on the conductor plate.

[Digitalwave]

They are FK tail lights, and I've heard of problems with aftermarket tails throwing the codes even when the lights work, but mine don't work. I am going to pull the tail light out this week and check the conductor plates for corrosion and damage. I would think that if they are corroded they could be repaired to an extent.

[MR 325]

Agreed with Adam, check all battery connections and clean if needed.

[Digitalwave]

It happened again today. Turns out the battery was dead. I put a Redtop in and she's cranking fine again.