Each time you have a new problem on your E30, post here.

[Tron]

So here goes hope I remember everything

When I brought her home *on a truck*

Clutch slave bad *Fixxed*
ABS controller bad *Deleted*
Brake master cylinder bad, 318 master bought ABS deleted *Fixxed*
rubber Brake hoses "swell" All 4 corners new steel braided lines *Fixxed*
Snapped the end off the rear brake (you know the one that connects the rubber house to the caliper? fml) "hardline" on the drivers side cause I'm an idiot" *fixxed*
All 4 shocks BLOWN, JOM coil overs bought *Fixxed *
Center support bearing was screaming like a banshee *New one installed fixed*
Guibo look like it was an exploded baseball *Fixxed*
Driver seat was an old nasty comfort seat *Racing seat installed FIXXED*
Driving home from my buddies shop my shift linkage decides its going to fall off at the light RIGHT before I turn to go into my neighborhood its stuck in 4th FML new shift linkage parts bought *Fixxed*


Now first time on track!

Engine mounts broke Alternator (the fan bit on the front mind you) hit my coolant hose tore a hole in that bitch! newhose *Fixxed*

Second time on track

Forgot my engine mounts where broke this time the power steering pump braket cut a whole in the coolant line. new hose AGAIN *Fixxed*

NOW 2 nights ago

Welded diff *not really a fix but w/e drift spec lawl*
NEW MOTOR MOUNTS *FIXXED*

Let my dad drive her around the block on time he made a U turn to come back.. he's never driven a lowered car before hit the curb with my front lip (thats all he took out thank god) *Zip tie stitch fixxed*

Keep in mind when I put *fixxed* Next to something its with ALOT of help from my lil bro and a few of our friends.

Things "to do"

New LCA's with new bushings
e36 rack swap
New solid m3 LCAB's
New tie rod ends

Been extra lazy since its 110+ here in AZ this time of year.

[blocke]

just dropped tranny to fix input shaft seal. 1 day after re-install, rear main seal starts leaking oil. Now clutch is slipping over 4k rpm.

Ordered new clutch disk and parts, dropping again next weekend to fix this crap.

[e30 gangsta]

coolant leak, end tack is cracked fml.

[klavender1]

Need shocks/struts all the way around. Realizing you can't just replace those without replacing everything they touch. No money for lower control arms or various other bushings. So probably just do KYB's and strut/shock mounts for now. By the time I get everything replaced in time, it'll be time to start over again. Haha. Then have to ask myself if an '87 325e with 286k miles is worth it. And THEN tell myself, at least it's cheaper than a car payment.

[ROLLingKING]

aahhh..lol @ the stuck trunk...dang man. good luck

[ROLLingKING]

That blows man, I would just take a drill bit smaller than the diameter of the shock bolt mount and drill it out, if you make a mistake, then whatever, you already have another TA.

Yea i had a coupe ppl at the bar tell me to try that but those extractors are hardened tempered steel. my drill bit wouldnt scratch the surface.lol and i got the best they had from lowes...today im just popping out the axel, attempting to do what i can till I buy the wheel bearing tmrw and using the trailing arm i picked up from the junk yard
thanks for the suggestion tho. id love to have the $130 back for the trailing arm

[blacksport325]

weellll
my lower shock bolt snapped in the rear trailing arm
after going to true value and trying to buy a 12mm bolt, they didnt have one strong enough. still being a noob to most "complicated" (complicated to me) issues, i learned i need a bolt extractor. the one they sold me snapped inside the bolt. after a trip to the local lowes i saw their extractors (after i checked there first and no one could show me the isle) and realized true value sold me an extractor that was meant for a like 7mm bolt. which is why it snapped.
now I have to replace the rear trailing arm along with putting bushings and a whee bearing in the trailing arm i picked up from the junk yard for 130.
Ive never taken apart this much of a car so this is alllll new to me and i feel im in over my head. oh well itll get done eventually i hope. cars been up on jack stands for 3 weeks now tho waiting on bi-weekly pay checks and shit. fml

That blows man, I would just take a drill bit smaller than the diameter of the shock bolt mount and drill it out, if you make a mistake, then whatever, you already have another TA.

[ROLLingKING]

weellll
my lower shock bolt snapped in the rear trailing arm
after going to true value and trying to buy a 12mm bolt, they didnt have one strong enough. still being a noob to most "complicated" (complicated to me) issues, i learned i need a bolt extractor. the one they sold me snapped inside the bolt. after a trip to the local lowes i saw their extractors (after i checked there first and no one could show me the isle) and realized true value sold me an extractor that was meant for a like 7mm bolt. which is why it snapped.
now I have to replace the rear trailing arm along with putting bushings and a whee bearing in the trailing arm i picked up from the junk yard for 130.
Ive never taken apart this much of a car so this is alllll new to me and i feel im in over my head. oh well itll get done eventually i hope. cars been up on jack stands for 3 weeks now tho waiting on bi-weekly pay checks and shit. fml

[DatUtahGuy]

I disassembled my trunk latch mechanism cuz I painted my car last night, now I don't think I put it back together properly and the trunk won't open, I know everything is good because it has worked perfectly for 2+years, just something came loose. FML.

[BergerNJ]

current:
front suspension seems worn badly...everything.

p/s hoses are leaking

steering rack is shot, looking into e36 swap if its worth it.

NO MUSIC AT ALL-p/o left me two 12" subs, an old head unit, no speakers and two shoddy amps.-new system on the way

my cluster BLOWS. the lights and the temp gauge sometimes need a tap to turn on, and my speedo sometimes as well....after searching the cluster threads I still am lost on what ways to fix it.

OH and I drive a vert, so I need the windows down to move the top without possibly damaging the windows or not sealing the top properly....passenger front and driver rear window switches are broken, they only look nice when lit up-no functionality.


needs a front valence.

and needs a muffler-currently running with no muffler-old one broke and sounded terrible and actually bogged the motor down so I removed it and not it runs way better but sounds loud lol

what has been done since purchase:

fuel line to what I think is a regulator or a small filter by the head was squirting fuel when running, hate to picture it under high rev+pressure...

water pump and v belts...previous owner did the timing belt but I think I'll be doing it in about 20k miles just to be safe since the water pump went right after I did the v belts.

it runs great mechanically.....the clutch and trans feel awesome for 143k on it...

[byza213]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=212254

HELP!

[bernzpeed]

my power steering is leaking.
ac is not working.

[pharow]

Passenger window will not go up or down, and sunroof only tilts forward.

[nickflic3]

Sunroof Panel is lame on the passenger side and only half of it moves up and down :(

Oil light on check panel is lit and oil light on cluster comes on intermittently

[lolcantturn]

blower fan doesn't blow anymore. fml