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Any setups that work (no rubbing, etc.), please post them. I'll put everything into a big table when I get a large enough batch of results.
Sticky?
"See, we're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anyone wanna see second prize? Second prize is a set of steak knives. Third prize is you're fired."
Et-20 16*7.5 TSW hock R rims 205/50/R16 tires Perfect in the rear, but have rubbing on the frame at full lock up front. Width wise i'm fine up front but my next tires will be 45 series to cut down on the frame rubbing.(only up front)
Suspension
bilstein M-tech shocks Racing dynamic springs. 21mm IC front sway bar with m3 endlinks and front and rear strut tower braces. -3 camber on both front corners.
Et-20 16*7.5 TSW hock R rims 205/50/R16 tires Perfect in the rear, but have rubbing on the frame at full lock up front. Width wise i'm fine up front but my next tires will be 45 series to cut down on the frame rubbing.(only up front)
Suspension setup?
"See, we're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anyone wanna see second prize? Second prize is a set of steak knives. Third prize is you're fired."
IE Stg III race springs
Bilstein Sports or Koni SAs
IE Sways
BavAuto Stressbar
E46 m3 cabrio RSMs
aluminum control arms
offset urethane CA bushings
17x8.5 wheels et20 front, et22 rear
235/40R17 Yokohama AVS ES100
Rolled Inner fender lips
Plastic Fender lining up front adjusted so tire doesn't rub the front when turning full lock.
Ground Control 350f/475r w/ Bilstein sports in front and Koni SA's in rear.
I have the GC's set so that there is zero fender gap front and rear.
15x7 et25.
225/50-15 Yoko AVS ES100.
Ghetto self-rolled fenders.
Zero rubbing.
Its worth noting that the rear rubbed ever so slightly under HARD acceleration when I had the Eibach Pro-kit.
H&R Cup Kit
ET 20 17x7.5
Yoko Parada 215/40/17
Rolled Lip
Extra 10mm spring pad in the rear stacked on the stock pad.
No rubbing AT ALL once the spring pad was installed. This shits pretty damn close in the rear. Can hardly get my fingers between the fender and the rear tire. I LOVE IT! :)
OK, first, I used Urethane Offset CA bushings which pushes the wheel about a half inch forward. This was necessary with my large wheel and tires or else they would probably not clear the rear of the fender well (that area is not exactly modifyable unless you take a sledge hammer to it and bend away sheetmetal). Anyway, after that, if you have rolled your inner fender lips, you probably have noticed the black plastic fender lining that has one screw in the very center of the top of the wheel well, and it's also secured at the front of the fender well. If you roll your inner fenders quite a bit, this plastic fender lining is most likely visible somewhat "hanging" down a little past the fender arch. It isn't really hanging since it is pretty taut. Anyway, this piece was somewhat secured at the edges by the inner fender lip, and now that that piece is rolled in, the fender lining may have popped out a bit like mine did, which caused it to not be secured up past the fender arch. I simply unsecured it at the front of the fender well and readjusted it so that it was back up inside the fender arch and then secured it with a screw at the front of the fender well. Hopefully you know what I am saying, basically if you do rub, found out which point touches and adjust it. Since the front of this fender lining rubbed, and it's moveable, I just readjusted it and then resecured it.
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