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318is: should I buy it?

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    318is: should I buy it?

    Hi, first post here, need advice about an e30 I looked at today.

    91 318is 5spd, 88K. Carfax is clean.

    The body has minimal rust on the sunroof and a spot on the front driverside fender. Rear lic plate lights and front strut towers are clean, rockers and floors look good (for a midwest car).

    Trans and clutch felt OK. Motor pulled and revved OK. VC looks like its leaking and a little oil around spark plug. The seller said that #2 cyl is weak yesterday, but then today said that his mechanic said everything is fine. I found a piece of cardboard stuffed around the #2 spark plug wire and that wire was loose, I snapped it back on, don't understand why??? I asked the mechanic and he said he hasn't done any work to it. Hmmm...

    Seller is asking $3K, I offered $2K and he said OK. What do you guys think?

    #2
    Thats fairly low mileage ...especially for $2k .

    If you have nough in your budget to cover possible engine work/swap in the future then go for it .

    E30 M3 / E30 325is / E34 525iT / E34 535i

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      #3
      Thanks Teaguer, I'll keep that in mind.

      OK, I didn't really check the car out as thoroughly as I should, and I'm worried about the motor because of what the seller told me about cyl #2.

      Before I actually buy the car tomorrow, I want to check the Fault Codes and do compression test. Does anyone have a link for identifying Fault Codes? And can someone tell me the acceptable range for cylinder compression? I did a few searches, and found some different numbers for a compression test, nothing for fault codes though.

      Is there anything else I should check?

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        #4
        Sounds like a good deal. 318is is under powered but luvs to rev. I like mine and I have a tricky 2002 and 325iX.

        Check to see if the profile gasket was replaced. They were bad from factory.
        Last edited by dlmrun2002; 11-08-2007, 07:01 PM. Reason: edit

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          #5
          With so few miles on it the M42 should definitely comp at around 190+ hot. Make sure the comp numbers are even.

          Check the rear wheel houses, right where the rear arches get pinched to the interior of the wheel well. Make sure the trunk doesn't leak. Push on the bottom of the front fenders. The rubberized coating often hides rust.

          Do not hesitate to RUN away from a car. Sure E30s do not grow on trees, but it is far worse to buy a car that becomes an albatross.

          Originally posted by whysimon
          WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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            #6
            Thanks for the info guys, this is exactly the kind of stuff I need to know!

            Does an OBD1 scanner tell you whats going on in each cylinder (like OBD2)?

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              #7
              E30s don't have ODB1
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #8
                Oops, thanks for the correction.

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                  #9
                  Well, I bought it. The gauge was leaking but showed all 4 cyls 90-100, cold. I decided to chance it. The only code was an O2 sensor # 1221. Dang am I nervous, and excited. The butt dyno tells me its got good power...but we'll see. It came with some rashed 16" Racing Dynamics 5 spokes, adjustable Konis and DSA sound system w/ Alpine deck. Did 85mph on the way home. Thanks for all the input.
                  Paul
                  Last edited by PaulC; 11-11-2007, 11:55 PM.

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