Hey Guys. My AC is absolutely dead, doesn't blow whatsoever. I'm just about to start my engine refresh, headgasket, timing belt, waterpump etc. Plan is to swap in a new condenser, receiver drier and rebuilt compressor while I have the engine apart. Then take it to a professional shop for the freon. Sound like a plan? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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New AC Condenser & Compressor = Working AC ?????? ????
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The only other thing I would suggest is to inspect hoses/seals/o-rings ? Maybe pay an A/C shop to run a pressure check and see what else needs to be replaced at the same time.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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Whatever you think is easiest, if you already bought them might as well install them. I was just saying there might be something else still ... were the parts your bought new ?Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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ac work is eazy... first fill it with some 134 (after you put your new 134 valves on) fill it...
wait to see if it leaks out... if no evac it dry oil and refill...
or
fine leak dissasemble replace seal with 10 dollar oring kit.. (use oil on seals) reasemble evac refill run.
if you fill it turn the compressor on, and it doesnt spin.. check your pressure valve... jump that out see if it turns... if so replace valve. if not
check for power at compressor...
if power at compressor ither wrong fill prossese... frozen condencor or bad drier.
i hear the stock compressors are better then the replacements... my ac works fine.. just my compressor is cracked and is very hard to tightin... i plan on aluminim welding it this spring.04 e83 X3
01 e39 540M
97 e36 328is
Specializing In BMW, Audi, Mercedes Benz, Porsche ,Volkswagen
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For what it's worth I opted to run Duracool after trying 134a. I was much happier with the Duracool. It's a propane/isobutane mixture.
Benefits are: uses better oil, draws less power (car doesn't jerk when compressor kicks in), colder!!
Very similar. Anybody running the Freeze 12?
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I don't know what Freeze 12 is made of, it would probably work fine.
My beef with the 134a in the e-30 is that our system was never designed for it; the condensor is just too small. The 134 is not very efficient and I found that it only worked Ok under the best circumstances. In stop and go driving or low speeds, forget it. Plus, it really made the car jerk when the compressor kicked-in .
I was happy with the Duracool. Definately better than the 134a. consider it.
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Originally posted by emi325i View PostI looked around and found that using products other than the standard refrigerants (R12, or R134A) is a bad idea. Quick fixes will cost you more in the end. On top of that shops may refuse to service your a/c system if you put crap in it. It'll contaminate their expensive equipment.
Absolutely true. Once you start messing with this stuff, it's in your hands. That said, hydrocarbons make a damn fine refrigerant. That whole flammability thing is a bitch though. Everybody is concerned about front end collisions and fire.... To be honest, I would say that is unlikely that the mixture will be correct to do anything. Now a evaporator leak into the interior on the other hand..... Thats got some potential!-Dave
2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville
Need some help figuring out the ETM?
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Just because it's not endorsed by the EPA doesn't mean it won't work. It is also illegal to buy used catalytic converters at the wreckers, but they work fine, too.
I found that my Duracool worked very well when r-134 didn't. It's true that shops won't work on it and that's something to keep in mind.
If you want to stick with an accepted refrigerant then I would recommend fixing all the leaks and going with r-12, even thought it is more expensive.
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