Ok just got the blower motor repaired and now when I turn on the heat I smell coolant. Right as I got home yesterday the coolant ligth on the check panel came on. Checked and all the expansion tank was empty. Refilled it and bled it, (in the ball numbing cold outside) but it again and ran it with no problems. Today coolant light comes on again. Got home coolant is still at the previous level as yesterday. Only thing different was that I did not run the heater but opened the vents and slid the lever to keep the windshield clear, but still getting the low coolant light on the OV Check panel.
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sensor could be shoot. $15 to replace with new one.
mine did the same till I replace the sensor. assuming you have filled the reservoir to the correct level.sigpic
- 0.05s and 0.1s FTW!!! -
yeah, the sensor on mine has a mind of its own.
BComment
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feel under your floormats it's probably soaked with coolant.
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You know, heater cores only seem to leak when its "ball numbing cold" outside. They have coolant through them at all times, but only when bypassing it would be a bad option and its the most miserable to work on it do they ever seem to break.
That Murphy fellow is a bastard ain't he? (mine is acting like its partially clogged)-Dave
2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville
Need some help figuring out the ETM?Comment
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I smell coolant for awhile when using my heater... is that normal? Goes away after about 5mins. Doesn't leak anything... just concerned about the smell.:("A good memory for quotes combined with a poor memory for attribution can lead to a false sense of originality."
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91 318is Turbo Sold
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for you guys that just smell it for a few minutes or so, you probably are leaking. it only takes a drop or two to make a big smell. Its probably just seeping around your water valves, or a bit of a leak around the o-rings where the tubes enter/exit the heater core. You can pull out your center console and look around there for traces of coolant. mine was doing the same thing, and then when I looked I saw that 3 of the 4 rivets holding the water valve together had broken(coulda been a huge mess unless i caught it). It would definately be worth it to spend the 10 minutes or so looking at those areas as it could potentially turn into a big mess/injury.
Kyle1988 M3, 97 840, 99 XJ
DILLIGAFComment
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He's right, it's definitely worth the 10 minutes to take a look. I had the water valve explode on me when I was driving, blowing coolant all over the driver-side footwell (and my brand new shoes for that matter...).
I had the same issue with the water valve; 3 of the 4 rivets were corroded out. Coolant level got a little low, probably as a result of the leaking valve, the car got hot and it finally blew. The diaphragm on the valve was also rotted and broken. Not cool, considering the replacement is 150 bucks.-----I drink and I know car things-----
1989 325i Touring - Daily W.I.P.
->https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=398457Comment
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and for those who are wondering and not wanting to spend 100+ bucks on a water valve, it can be bypassed. The E30 heater box is a split box, meaning that if you have it on full cold, no air will pass over the heater core. I bypassed mine, using about 20 bucks in supplies. I was also able to run a hose to the back of the engine which is my new high spot in the system allowing easy bleeding and can back-fill the system.
Kyle1988 M3, 97 840, 99 XJ
DILLIGAFComment
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1986 325es (69k) Garage Queen Buy It Now 10k;1986 325es (track rat) 2.7i How-To & 1.1/1.3Motronic UpGrade
1991 318is (daily driver) 1991 318is M42 Maintenance How-To;1989 325i (parts car)Comment
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