rotors??

[sexydylan05]

hello i have a few questions about my rotors. and yes i did try and find it in a search.

ok, i just had my left front wheel bearing replaced and now im hearing a scraping, squeaking noise coming from my left front rotor. i heard if you dont get your wheel bearing fixed right away then it can warp your rotor? im pretty sure my rotors are already warped because when i apply the brakes my car starts to jerk.

-so is that true?

also if i do need new rotors, i was thinking about getting drilled rotors. i dont do any track stuff but i do like to go driving in the mountains and drive hard on curvy roads. is stopping hard and over heating the reason why they get warped?

-is it worth the money to get drilled rotors?
-and is it possible to drill holes in stock rotors yourself. if so what kind of bit would i need?
-last thing what are some good brands of brake pads. like i said i dont do track racing or anything. just normal daily driver.

thank you very much
hope it was clear enough

[AndrewBird]

As far the the rotor being warped from the wheel bearing, I'm not sure. Seems like it wouldn't matter since the rotor is a separate piece from the hub.

Can you explain the noise a little more? Is it constant, or varying? Does the brake pedal pulsate when pressed?

Drilled rotors are garbage. At least, most are. They offer little or no upgrade in performance and most, if they are not heat treated after drilling, will crack in between the holes. For this reason as well (among others), you can't drill the rotors yourself.

Slotted rotors are the way to go if you want an upgrade, but under normal driving, you won't notice a difference, but they do look cool. ;)

If you get a dial indicator you can check the runout on the rotor to see if it is warped. If you don't know what I'm talking about, get a Bentley Manual. It should have the procedure and the specs in it on how to check them along with how to fix everything else on the car. This website shows how it is done a little ways down:

http://bernardembden.com/xjs/hub/

[ddavidv]

-is it worth the money to get drilled rotors?
-and is it possible to drill holes in stock rotors yourself. if so what kind of bit would i need?
-last thing what are some good brands of brake pads. like i said i dont do track racing or anything. just normal daily driver.

Ahhh, the innocence of youth. :-P
As above, drilled rotors are money-wasting bling that will do nothing other than warp, crack, and broadcast to the real drivers among us that you are a poseur.
Drill yourself? Oh my...:woowoo:

Pads...spend your money here. Stock Brembo or ATE rotors are perfectly fine. Padgid Metalmasters are a good all-round street pad that will be better than stock.
Warped rotors will usually give you a 'pulsation' when you apply the brakes. I'd replace in pairs if this is the case.
A metallic noise means something is touching something else. Could be a bent dust shield, loose something or a wheel that isn't properly tightened or centered.

[Burning2nd]

lol noobs....

yes yes and yes..

the WB causeing the wheel to spin un-true the roters are connected to the knuckel... which is held on by the Wb....

bad roter---> fast worn Wb
bad Wb----->warped roters..

now this is all asumeing your not driveing like a nut...


Cross drilled and sloted roters serve better cause...

anyone who has them knows why.. the point is simple CD roters dissapate heat generated by friction faster

sloted saves pad....

Cd in front..(weight)
sloted in rear...


roters warp from one reason.... heating and cooling.

[sexydylan05]

thank you for the help guys. i figured that buying drilled or even slotted rotors would be a waste of money. only really helpful in extreme braking and or extreme heat.

NitroRustlerDriver- the noise is constant, sometimes worse then others. there is no vibration or pulsing in the pedal when im driving but when i stop thats when you can feel the pulsating which is why i believe they are warped.

ddavidv- i was also thinking that the dust shield was bent or something was touching.

i dont think the rotors have been done in a long time so i think ill just do all of them at once.

thanks again guys!

and im not that much of a noob i've been subscribed to this site for 2 years. everyone has questions and starts out some where.

[ddavidv]

lol noobs....

Cross drilled and sloted roters serve better cause...

anyone who has them knows why.. the point is simple CD roters dissapate heat generated by friction faster

sloted saves pad....

Cd in front..(weight)
sloted in rear...


roters warp from one reason.... heating and cooling.

I'm not going to waste time arguing with you.
I'll just let you continue believing cross-drilled rotors are the Holy Grail.
Those of us who actually do our homework with real tech know the truth.

[nando]

the main benefit to drilled rotors is reduced weight.. but that same weight is what allows the rotor to absorb heat. so it's a trade off. it might work well on cars that come with huge 330mm rotors but not with tiny E30 brakes - we need all the mass we can get!

[Skafrog]

lol noobs....

yes yes and yes..

the WB causeing the wheel to spin un-true the roters are connected to the knuckel... which is held on by the Wb....

bad roter---> fast worn Wb
bad Wb----->warped roters..

now this is all asumeing your not driveing like a nut...


Cross drilled and sloted roters serve better cause...

anyone who has them knows why.. the point is simple CD roters dissapate heat generated by friction faster

sloted saves pad....

Cd in front..(weight)
sloted in rear...


roters warp from one reason.... heating and cooling.

What in the hell are you talking about? You do realize that rotors do not actually warp, they just get pad buildup in uneven places around the rotor, right?
This is without a doubt the most ignorant, ricer attitude post I have ever been witness to.
You cant even spell rotors, and this forum has spell check.
I suggest you try and start here:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml

Once you read through that without going cross eyed from the lack of "drilled is t3h sh1t", then move on to this:

http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=2002&highlight=altima+brake

Nando, drilled rotors were to help outgassing back in the 70's on race cars. Now that we have moved into the present, it's a complete farce, and yet another thing where the doriftos and street crowd completely missed the actual tech behind it, and just saw the appearance.
Its all in that thread.

[nando]

Nando, drilled rotors were to help outgassing back in the 70's on race cars. Now that we have moved into the present, it's a complete farce, and yet another thing where the doriftos and street crowd completely missed the actual tech behind it, and just saw the appearance.
Its all in that thread.

I know, but they are lighter and that is a benefit - the tradeoff is they're a less effective heat sink. that was my only point, I'd never use drilled rotors :)

[Turf1600]

I drilled about 150 holes in mine with a wood bit and it works fine. If you believe me I suggest you do the same.

[scott_is]

I drilled about 150 holes in mine with a wood bit and it works fine. If you believe me I suggest you do the same.

You drilled 150 holes with a wood bit in your rotors (cast iron...)?
your kidding right?

[nando]

You drilled 150 holes with a wood bit in your rotors (cast iron...)?
your kidding right?

sarcasm..

[uofom3]

I know, but they are lighter and that is a benefit - the tradeoff is they're a less effective heat sink. that was my only point, I'd never use drilled rotors :)

exactly.

if you MUST have non-standard rotors... slotted are the way to go, but even that it's not really a must at all.