The "The engineer was drunk, stupid bolt location" thread

[browntown]

Figured maybe we could put all the frequently bitched about fasteners in one place, and your best solution to get it.

My short list:

Exhaust manifold _> downpipe nuts (6-14mm copper nuts): Impact gun from below with a mishmash of extensions and a universal joint + lots of PB Blaster overnight. Once you inevitably round a nut, then you get to break in the fancy set of "bolt-outs" Might want to replace with copper greased torx head bolts

Bitch clip: Best method here: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/dri...itch_clip.html
Might be a good idea to replace with a bolt

Subframe brake lines. Don't bother, drop the subframe

Separating the transmission from the engine in the car, good luck, best to yank the two out as a pair.

Top bolt clutch slave cylinder: Undo the tranny subframe support, and lower the tranny an inch or two. Put a bunch a long wobble extension together and attack from further back on the tranny.


There's got to be plenty of others, just the few that come to mind, please add.

[jrobie79]

oh yeah that bitch clip was a real winner, took me forever to get that bastard out, i could do it in my sleep now, still replaced it with a bolt tho

[So Live]

Starter bolts in car with a M50.

Guess that wasnt the engineers problem though...

Brake booster to firewall kinda sucks too. really really difficult to get all the nuts on.

Bitch clips sucks. I did mine out of the car and it wasnt so bad :)

[AndrewBird]

Subframe brake lines. Don't bother, drop the subframe

This one is doable rather easily if you have the car on a lift. Without a lift, I can see it being hard.

Separating the transmission from the engine in the car, good luck, best to yank the two out as a pair.

The one thing that might make this hard is if the tranny has never been out before. Stuck bolts would be a bitch, considering their location. Otherwise, completely doable.

If all you need to do is swap the tranny, you don't have to pull the engine, but if you are doing something like the clutch or are going to have the engine out anyway, pull it as one.

[AndrewBird]

I'll also add to the list:

Fan clutch nut. A crescent wrench works or some have had luck finding a table saw wrench that is the same size. The advantage of this is the fact that it is slim. Another option is the tool made for this job. To keep the pulley from turning, either try wedging the alternator belt or buy the tool made for it. A LARGE pair of channel lock pliers around the water pump pulley will also work, but could/will scratch the paint on it.

[Borat]

Does it matter if I was the drunk engineer?
My lower exhaust manifold nuts are an absolute bitch to remove, gotta use an open ended spanner and slide it up between the block and tubing. 20/20 hindsight eh?

[Tangent]

The sure as hell didn't improve the bitch clip on following models. About 75% of the time it took to install the Evo3 shifter in my 330i was getting that $%^&* bitch clip out.

That godforsaken spring loaded jack-in-the-box pipe that connects the intake manifold to the oil pan on M20s can blow me.

[NC325iC]

ive gotten really good at the downpipe bolts, dont even have to use a u joint any more

the control arm central ball joint is a pain in the ass

[tjts1]

Not a bolt but still stupid. The M42 tb heater/crankcase ventilation heater/idle control heater. WTF were they smoking?

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/205/493177227_4d3a9ece47_o.jpg

All replaced with one 8" hose.

[SamE30e]

Transmission, very top bolt..

4 extensions, 2 swivels, and a torx socket and about an hour of your time. Oh and infant hands would help too.

[NC325iC]

that top tranny bolt is a bitch the first time around
2.5-3 feet of extensions rear support unbolted and hanging as fas as i dared let it and small arms and hands and a 2ft breaker bar

[xLibelle]

Transmission, very top bolt..

4 extensions, 2 swivels, and a torx socket and about an hour of your time. Oh and infant hands would help too.

true to a T

[Elephant]

I'll also add to the list:

Fan clutch nut. A crescent wrench works or some have had luck finding a table saw wrench that is the same size. The advantage of this is the fact that it is slim. Another option is the tool made for this job. To keep the pulley from turning, either try wedging the alternator belt or buy the tool made for it. A LARGE pair of channel lock pliers around the water pump pulley will also work, but could/will scratch the paint on it.

I thought the fan clutch nut solution was known to everyone, including those who don't own E30's. I bought a 32mm wrench from HD or Lowes, wherever, don't matter, and ground it down to make it slim. Place wrench on nut, hit with heavy shot filled mallet. If this doesn't work then you're doing something wrong, I've never ever once been denied. Some are more difficult that others no doubt but a few good whacks and it's loose. This solution is the equivalent of a $5 whore, guaranteed. Heck I don't think I've ever even PB'd it beforehand (that would be the lube in this analogy).

Cheers.

[rede30]

The first three on your list i have down, still no fun though. I always dread the right front control arm because of that middle 19mm bolt. I have a technique but it still takes quite some time. I need a ratcheting 19mm wrench to end my pain.

[e30_kid89]

^^^Yep...that bolt made me cry. A bent wrench helped though.