I don't get it, it is already under tension. what is the big deal if that is released and then put back to where it was. how does it shorten its life by doing this?
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why can't you "retension" the timing belt
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Originally posted by ptownTSI View PostI don't get it, it is already under tension. what is the big deal if that is released and then put back to where it was. how does it shorten its life by doing this?
You can remove/replace the water pump without removing tension if that is your reason .
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you can, if it's new - I've put about 25k on a retensioned belt (it was new, no miles when I took it off and put it back on). but yeah, it's a cheap part, no reason to chance it. I only did it because A) I can get away with a broken belt and B) I wanted to get my car running that day, I didn't have time to wait for a new one. Also, I wanted to know if it could be done, because everyone always says no. ;)
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just don't risk it bro. Its something that is inexpensive that can become very expensive if it decided to go. You could always build a non impedance motor instead of spending 15 bucks on a belt. Lol
Kinda off subject but why are you taking the head off to replace a rocker? Did you bend a valve or something?
E30Fiend
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The reason is that the internal cords may separate once tensioned then slacked off and tensioned again (works them around in the rubber).
The price of the belt is cheap insurance.
The recommended interval on M20s is 4 years or 50K (it changed...actually I wrote TSB on it in the early 90's) because we found a whole shit load were failing long before 60k.
I would personally (and if you drive like I do) replace the belt every 30K.
I just picked up a '90 2 door I for $50 because of a t belt failure...any one got some new valves for an 885 head they wana sell cheap?
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If you do decide to reuse it, reinstalling the belt with the correct rotation is critical. Mark it before you take it off.
....but really..... $15.-Dave
2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville
Need some help figuring out the ETM?
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Originally posted by DCColegrove View PostThe reason is that the internal cords may separate once tensioned then slacked off and tensioned again (works them around in the rubber).
The price of the belt is cheap insurance.
The recommended interval on M20s is 4 years or 50K (it changed...actually I wrote TSB on it in the early 90's) because we found a whole shit load were failing long before 60k.
I would personally (and if you drive like I do) replace the belt every 30K.
I just picked up a '90 2 door I for $50 because of a t belt failure...any one got some new valves for an 885 head they wana sell cheap?
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