When I'm going uphills it seems to start doing it. I changed the spark plugs with Bosch platinums and the fuel filter yesterday, and still doing it. I ran some gas treat and injector cleaner through it, and it was a no go. I cleaned the filter also. Please help! Running out of ideas!
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Surging Eta! Help!!
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In tank fuel pump, if it only does it under heavy load. Early cars had 2 pumps, and the intank pump fed the pressure pump. Pull the back seat, pull the panel on the left under the sound pad, pull the pump plug(not the sender) and check for continuity through pump. no continuity, no pump.Originally posted by codyep3I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
2010 F650gs twin
2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather
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Bosch WR9LS for the eats........
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Is there also Rear FPR?
just wondering if there is another FPR in the back as well (right in front of the driver rear wheel), Looks like there is one when i peek under there. I'm have the same problem and just replaced all the cracked line in the enging bay and it helped mostly, except goin up the hill as mentioned before, (that is also the last line i havent replaced. the rear one right befor this "FPR" cause it didnt seem cracked). My car is an 86 ETA.
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same deal here......86eta, surges at idle up and down and under a load/ almost flooring the gas it falls flat. I can find any vac leaks, plugs, cap rotor are all ruled out. I sprayed out my icv with carb cleaner...reinstalled and it did the same thing except at a higher idle. The in tank fuel pump is suppose to be new according to the shop who replaced it...along with fuel filter. Makes me want to check fuel pressure anyway. Im alittle fustrated myself as I a have the car completely stripped for paint...no lights ect, so I cant just drive it to a repair shop, much less want to pay someone else to troubleshoot it plus the tow there. Ive done all cooling hoses, injector rail o-rings--upper and lower--timing belt-cam seal-water pump and now Im stumped !![sigpic
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Originally posted by RIDEOUTBOY View Postjust wondering if there is another FPR in the back as well (right in front of the driver rear wheel), Looks like there is one when i peek under there. I'm have the same problem and just replaced all the cracked line in the enging bay and it helped mostly, except goin up the hill as mentioned before, (that is also the last line i havent replaced. the rear one right befor this "FPR" cause it didnt seem cracked). My car is an 86 ETA.
ThanksOriginally posted by codyep3I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
2010 F650gs twin
2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather
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Originally posted by expressfish View Postsame deal here......86eta, surges at idle up and down and under a load/ almost flooring the gas it falls flat. I can find any vac leaks, plugs, cap rotor are all ruled out. I sprayed out my icv with carb cleaner...reinstalled and it did the same thing except at a higher idle. The in tank fuel pump is suppose to be new according to the shop who replaced it...along with fuel filter. Makes me want to check fuel pressure anyway. Im alittle fustrated myself as I a have the car completely stripped for paint...no lights ect, so I cant just drive it to a repair shop, much less want to pay someone else to troubleshoot it plus the tow there. Ive done all cooling hoses, injector rail o-rings--upper and lower--timing belt-cam seal-water pump and now Im stumped !!Originally posted by codyep3I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
2010 F650gs twin
2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather
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Originally posted by SpartanTiger81 View PostWhen I'm going uphills it seems to start doing it. I changed the spark plugs with Bosch platinums and the fuel filter yesterday, and still doing it. I ran some gas treat and injector cleaner through it, and it was a no go. I cleaned the filter also. Please help! Running out of ideas!
Cap, rotor and plugs were all shot. Replaced them and the fuel filter and it helped a little.
Sea Foamed twice with no change.
Checked fuel pressure and had proper pressure at cold start injector but transfer pump in tank had zero pressure even though it was running. Replaced the pump and definitely helped climbing hills but had hesitation/sputter/surge.
Removed the fuel pulse absorber thinking it may be clogged or something but it wasn't and consequently didn't fix anything.
Cleaned ICV for the hell of it. It wasn't too gummed up inside but cleaning it made a difference with start up. Cleaned TB as well.
Tested throttle position switch and it tested good at idle postion but had no continuity at WOT. Replaced it and it was like adding 20HP. The surge/hesitation/stumbling was almost totally gone. I think the AFM was messed with at some point because the cap is removed. It may need a little tweak down the road. The throttle position switch looked clean and undamaged when it was on the car but when I took it off it was REALLY oil soaked inside.
Throttle response is way better too.
Sorry for the long post but I can totally relate to what you're going through.
Dan.
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