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    #1

    Crank Bolt help?

    Ok I'm trying to remove the crank nut on my m30 engine. It's torqued to 325ft/lbs 23 more then the m20 crank bolt. I broke a m20 crank Bolt loose last summer and used the same setup on this engine but I bent the breaker bar I used before. So I went to Home-depot and buaght 2 36 inch sections of 1/2" Schedule 40 Black steel pipe and bent it also. This Nut just won't budge. I also tried my air wrench which goes to 350 ft/lbs but my compressor is undersized for the wrench and it would break it loose either.
    Any ideas of what to do?
    I've soaked the nut at least 6 times with Liquid wrench.
    85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker
    Tags: None
    #2
    Hammer and breaker bar? Maybe you can shock it loose with brute force? Maybe a torch to loosen things up?

    Just throwing crap out there.

    "See, we're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anyone wanna see second prize? Second prize is a set of steak knives. Third prize is you're fired."

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      #3
      I guese I could Torch the bolt to heat it up, but I'd be afraid of all the penetraing oil, and engine oil around the hub and seal to catch fire.
      85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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        #4
        Originally posted by rs4pro3
        I guese I could Torch the bolt to heat it up, but I'd be afraid of all the penetraing oil, and engine oil around the hub and seal to catch fire.
        Torch around all of the oil and solvents = bad call.
        Originally posted by Gruelius
        and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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          #5
          Ask M3 Ryan - he knows M30's....
          Originally posted by Matt-B
          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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            #6
            I searched Mye28.com and Every one said the Bolt is a Bitch to get off. I even read about a couple people shearing the end of the crank right off :shock:
            If I can't get it tommorow I'll drop it in the trunk and find a large Truck shop to zip it off with a larger air wrench.
            85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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              #7
              Yea, not a place to use locktite on I guess....
              Originally posted by Matt-B
              hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                #8
                Well they say it's supposed to be installed with Red loctite and torqued to the exact spec no matter what.
                85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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                  #9
                  who says that? The mye28 guys?? (if they say so - do it...they know their stuff)
                  Originally posted by Matt-B
                  hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                    #10
                    Yep. I will if I ever get the bolt off. tommorow I'm going to call some truck repair places and see if I drop the block in the trunk if they can zip it off for me.
                    85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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                      #11
                      I just came across the same problem on one of my M20 block...

                      I finally got it .....I heated it up with a small torch set til it became really hot and then i poored in some cold water to it.

                      Et Voila....worked really good ..it came off really easy with the air gun...

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                        #12
                        wow, I'm not sure that's a such good idea.. you could really stress the metal by heating it and cooling it really fast, and cause hairline cracks to form.
                        Build thread

                        Bimmerlabs

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                          #13
                          What sly said is standard practice. It shouldnt be a problem.

                          I would suggest using a heat gun instead of a torch tho. Not as fast, not quite as hot, but alot safer.
                          Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast

                          Vapor Honing & E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
                          https://mtechniqueabs.com/

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                            #14
                            How do you retorque it down? Wont the crank spin before you get to 300+ ft/lbs? Air gun?

                            Aaron

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                              #15
                              Rope stuffed in the clyinders, Or Right now I have a piece of chain threaded in where the flywheel bolts and the other end is attached to the block, this keeps the crank firm.
                              I don't have a heat gun handy but I may buy one as I don't want to have a fire on my hands with the torch.
                              85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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