Rear Bearing Install Question?

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  • Leeroy
    E30 Addict
    • Apr 2008
    • 587

    #1

    Rear Bearing Install Question?

    I'm changing out my rear bearings and I've got as far as taking off a nut. I do knot have the right socket that fits it i was wondering if anyone knows the size of the nut or if i'm doing something wrong. I'm still learning so try not to be to harsh :???:. thank you guyz here is a pic of the bolt it is located in the center.


    Transaction Feedback Thread:
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=150103
  • dinanm3atl
    R3V OG
    • Feb 2007
    • 7305

    #2
    Oh that nut... I put fresh axles in the car before.

    First things first that fresh lock ring needs to come out. The clean looking silver part. Use flat head screw driver or pick tool and remove it.

    Forgot what size the nut is :(

    I wanna drive my old car with the full fresh set of brakes and new rear wheel bearings and the new suspension... Bring it over.

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    • Leeroy
      E30 Addict
      • Apr 2008
      • 587

      #3
      Originally posted by dinanm3atl
      Oh that nut... I put fresh axles in the car before.

      First things first that fresh lock ring needs to come out. The clean looking silver part. Use flat head screw driver or pick tool and remove it.

      Forgot what size the nut is :(

      I wanna drive my old car with the full fresh set of brakes and new rear wheel bearings and the new suspension... Bring it over.
      You want to this weekend?


      Transaction Feedback Thread:
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=150103

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      • rs4pro3
        R3V Elite
        • Oct 2003
        • 5808

        #4
        A 30mm thin wall socket is needed
        85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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        • Leeroy
          E30 Addict
          • Apr 2008
          • 587

          #5
          Originally posted by rs4pro3
          A 30mm thin wall socket is needed
          Thank you i thought i was gonna have to buy 5 sockets and test them hehe you saved me some money thanks man.


          Transaction Feedback Thread:
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=150103

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          • dinanm3atl
            R3V OG
            • Feb 2007
            • 7305

            #6
            Ely will know :)

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            • FredK
              R3V OG
              • Oct 2003
              • 14739

              #7
              I just buzzed the nut off with a 30 mm impact socket. I didn't remove the lock plate first.

              Comment

              • GotCone?
                E30 Addict
                • Jan 2008
                • 589

                #8
                I managed to use a normal 30mm from Craftsman (not thin wall.

                just tap it on a bit so it bends the lock plate back a little so you get good bite. you'll want a short extension and a nice big breaker bar.

                pb blast soaking is a friend. I would squirt it a few times a day before the w/e when I was going to break the loose and it was minimal effort once I got to doing it.
                Build : Das Drehmoment Ungeheuer

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                • kencopperwheat
                  King of Kegstands
                  • Oct 2003
                  • 14396

                  #9
                  Yeah... 30mm thin wall. You can't get the lock washer off before the nut. Air is your friend.
                  Originally posted by Gruelius
                  and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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                  • dinanm3atl
                    R3V OG
                    • Feb 2007
                    • 7305

                    #10
                    It was just off a couple months ago when I put in fresh axles. Shouldn't be too terrible.

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                    • browntown
                      No R3VLimiter
                      • Jun 2004
                      • 3524

                      #11
                      30mm, then depending on how ancient everything is, you can either put a puller on the hub flange to push the axle out with the center, or I just used a brass drift.

                      The hub and bearing will need to be pressed though. I destroyed a slide hammer and the hub flange trying to remove them myself.

                      Comment

                      • atomic
                        R3V Elite
                        • Jun 2007
                        • 5691

                        #12
                        Make sure when reinstalling the axles that you lubricate the splines of the axles with anti seize and install then torque the nuts to 144-155 Ft. lb. before installing NEW lock plates.

                        Hope you don't have the problem removing an axle like we did over the weekend on mine. :( Had to use a completely different trailing arm and axle to finish the job!


                        ;)

                        Comment

                        • Leeroy
                          E30 Addict
                          • Apr 2008
                          • 587

                          #13
                          Originally posted by atomic
                          Make sure when reinstalling the axles that you lubricate the splines of the axles with anti seize and install then torque the nuts to 144-155 Ft. lb. before installing NEW lock plates.

                          Hope you don't have the problem removing an axle like we did over the weekend on mine. :( Had to use a completely different trailing arm and axle to finish the job!


                          ;)
                          Man i hope o dont mess up my axle. I'm building a puller outa some flat pieces of metal and gonna use a slide hammer to take the Hub off. Thank you guys for the information. I needed it.


                          Transaction Feedback Thread:
                          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=150103

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                          • atomic
                            R3V Elite
                            • Jun 2007
                            • 5691

                            #14
                            You will have a hard time messing the axle up. The axle in one of my trailing arms just would not come out at all. Seized to hell in the bearing race. It was a bearing that was going bad as well. We tried everything short of a vertical press which I am going to try so I can save the arm in case it is needed in the future. And we were using the B90 tool as well.

                            Good luck man

                            Comment

                            • dinanm3atl
                              R3V OG
                              • Feb 2007
                              • 7305

                              #15
                              They are fresh axles and will come out easy. I just swapped them.

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