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    Oil pan - is it REALLY that easy?

    I did searching, I just want to clarify and find out what you guys do.

    SO, if I lift the motor up as high as it goes, basically so the heads against the firewall, I'll be able to get the oil pan out past the oil pump?! (http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/oilpan.html)

    Cause, that's badass if it's true! I thought for sure I'd have to drop the subframe a little to get the pan out all the way. Reason being, in this article (http://www.slidewaysonline.com/?q=node/41) has them jacking up the motor AND dropping the oil pump.

    Anyway, let me know what you guys did.
    - Sean Hayes

    #2
    You have to remove the oil pump to be able to pull the pan out. It's not that hard in either case. The longest part of it is cleaning the pan up/all the bolts.
    Last edited by netcsk; 08-17-2008, 02:15 PM.

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      #3
      I've done it without lifting the motor twice. The trick is to unbolt your steering rack and then lift the transmission up a bit for clearance, after that its not bad. The hardest part is getting the oil pump back in.

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        #4
        Originally posted by netcsk View Post
        You have to remove the oil pan to be able to pull the pan out. It's not that hard in either case. The longest part of it is cleaning the pan up/all the bolts.
        what the fuck does that mean?



        You can do two things,

        put a 4x4 at the top and hang the engine. disconnect motor mounts and subframe 4 bolts.

        Or lift motor up, easiest solution. It lifts up about 2-3 inches, that's all the room you need.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Aptyp View Post
          what the fuck does that mean?



          You can do two things,

          put a 4x4 at the top and hang the engine. disconnect motor mounts and subframe 4 bolts.

          Or lift motor up, easiest solution. It lifts up about 2-3 inches, that's all the room you need.
          Using the bolded method, do I have to undo the oil pump?

          I'm underneath now, and it's looking like my crank scraper/oil pan baffle has migrated backwards! WTF. Stupid IE and their shitty products.
          - Sean Hayes

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            #6
            Ooooh, careful Sean! Don't say that on E30Tech, or you'll get banned!

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              #7
              'm underneath now, and it's looking like my crank scraper/oil pan baffle has migrated backwards! WTF. Stupid IE and their shitty products.
              There's very little possible motion of the crank scraper and if it was properly fitted to the crank when originally installed there shouldn't be any interference now.

              To fit the scraper to the crank it is necessary to loosely bolt the scraper in place using all of the pan bolts, mark the scraper where it is too close to the crank in any position it can assume, and then grinding away the offending metal (I like at least 1mm of clearance). Then when everything is reassembled you can be sure that there can be no interference.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                #8
                i built a 4x4 brace to hold the engine up, so much easier to drop the subframe out and do it that way.
                IG: @Baye30

                FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by golde30 View Post
                  i built a 4x4 brace to hold the engine up, so much easier to drop the subframe out and do it that way.
                  I think that's what I'm going to do, just so I have the room to work.

                  When I put my scraper/baffle in 30k miles ago, I grinded it down a lot, and it really wasn't close to my crank at all. I couldn't get it close, because when one side was, the other side was far away or something along those lines. So, I just got it for the baffle part of it. I'll be interesting to see how things are looking when I remove the pan tomorrow. had to stop today because I don't have gaskets yet, and I'd rather not leave my bottom end exposed (it's in a parking lot with the front end in the air) lol

                  Originally posted by Mr. Anderson View Post
                  Ooooh, careful Sean! Don't say that on E30Tech, or you'll get banned!
                  Yea, I know right? lol
                  - Sean Hayes

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I just jacked off the ac and ps brackets, worked well. Getting the oil pump shaft back in took a couple tries, maybe 15 minutes of messing with it, but all in all it was straightforward and well worth it... no more embarrassing oil spots.

                    1988 325iC Project - FINISHED!
                    Build Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ht=325iC+paint

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                      #11
                      all i have ever done was unbolt the motor mounts. then jacked up the engine from flat part on the front of the trans. u will have to wiggly the pan out but it will come out.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by bimmerboy12 View Post
                        I just jacked off
                        Meh he he he he he he he...

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                          #13
                          muah hah hahahahaha, good one mr. anderson, good one. almost motivational poster worthy.

                          Oil Pan Replacement:
                          I Just jacked off


                          Some one make it

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Got it changed. I wanted room to work, so I lowered the subframe enough to give me a good 3-4 inches of workroom. And, I raised the engine 1-2 inches. I didn't have to remove my PS lines so that was a plus. I just kept the subframe hanging there from a bottle jack.

                            Although, I did run into a major issue...my Treehouse Racing Bushings were COMPLETELY seized up. Making them an utter BITCH to remove! Oh, and they are rusting like crazy, powdercoating flaking off. Anyone have that issue?

                            I HATED doing this! Changing the oil pan was a bitch. I left my crank scraper alone. It did migrate back a little bit, but just enough to leave a little clearance between the scraper and the crank. My pan was very very difficult to remove. I think I may have used a bit too much gasket maker. LOL
                            - Sean Hayes

                            Comment


                              #15
                              i find it that undoing the engine mounts and jacking up the tranny is the easiest fastest way to get the job done. i havent tried the 4x4/ subframe method but it seems a bit much for something that can be done with ~3 inches of clearance. Glad to hear you got it done though
                              Originally posted by ebelements
                              Also, for those who don't know, negative camber is the greatest thing since sliced bread(panera). Even tire wear is for city busses and the elderly.

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