well i bought a never used jb flywheel from a guy and he did not have the bolts. Im thinking that it probably came with special bolts because i dont think the stock ones are quite long enough for this flywheel the first pic is the stock flywheel and the second is JB. Remember that the threads in the crank do not start right at the face. I have also emailed JB but im guessing they wont sell me shit without a complete rebuild of the flywheel. (this was the case until the guy i bought it from found the ring for the bolts)
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Engineers / smart people of r3v, are my flywheel bolts too short
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostWhy not go to the hardware store and buy longer bolts?
I suppose the heads are flatter then normal. Would regular bolts stick out too far?
BMW is way smarter than the hardware store!
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostDude. They are bolts. The simplest part on the entire car. If you are worried about them shearing, get grade 8's and call it a day. The only issue is if the thinner heads are actually needed or not.
In these pictures did you use the spacer that goes btw the bolts and the flywheel? does the jb fly rquire its use?Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by TimKninjaIm more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
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You have plenty of thread on there to handle the shear load. Not to mention, you have 8 bolts.
Those bolts must be at least grade 5, which means it can handle a shitload of shear forces.Recent Rebranding!!
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Thats not shear, thats a bearing stress for how far 'sunk' the bolts are into the crank.
Shear = [2 x torque x bolt diameter from center] / [Number of bolts x Bolt area]
that dosent take into account factors of safety, which would be a muliplier.
dont remember bearing off the top of my head
In short, buy the proper studs from the dealer or vendor. Not hardware bitsLast edited by Hick; 09-04-2008, 10:31 AM.
Originally posted by vladDo you know anybody else who built that many bad ass E30s?
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as a ex-mechanic in an acid refinery, for steel we had to have 5 threads engaged in the opposite fastener, bolt-n-nut, or stud & 2 nuts. You had to have 1 thread exposed through the fastener if it was a stainless application. Generally that meant ~8 threads in a nut, and then the exposed.
Motorcycle dealerships are a good resource for hardware if you can get in good enough to rummage their bolt bins. Swing arms/suspension use a lot of good size, high grade hardware.
It's not how you handle the good times, but the faith you keep in the bad that defines you.
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostDude. They are bolts. The simplest part on the entire car. If you are worried about them shearing, get grade 8's and call it a day. The only issue is if the thinner heads are actually needed or not.
There is a TON of engineering behind almost every nut, bolt, stud and washer that BMW puts on your car.
Plus, grade 8 is an SAE standard, and doesn't even apply to metric bolts. Those are either 10.9 or 12.9, both of which are stronger than grade 8!
And for god's sake torque them properly.
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flywheel bolts rank right up there with rod bolts, main bearing bolts and head bolts. don't fuck around - just get the right hardware. I know i've seen threads where people have sheared/broken the flywheel bolts because of improper hardware or not torquing them right. unless you really enjoy pulling your transmission to redo something as "simple" as 8 bolts..
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