ohh and the clutch was also done too ...
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4500 is still way too much, maintenance performed doesn't really increase the value much.
Book value in excellent condition is only 2300, With that rust, it's not excellent. I wouldn't give more than 2000.
If he declines, then I would recommend finding a southern car, stay away from the rust belt cars, they suck to work on.
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I understand that the book value is lower but does the car it self hold some value other than the fact that its a 17 year old car? I've been looking for a while and the prices have always been in this range, but maybe I could be wrong ...
should i just offer him maybe 2500 or 3000? the guy has been very helpful, took the car to the mechanic for me (sent me the report), fixed a couple of small things to make sure that there wasn't anything wrong with the car when i take it. Seems like an honest guy too.Comment
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The reason he is being so "nice and honest" is that there is not much selling in the market right now. He is doing what he needs to do to sell the car.Originally posted by EA8 View Post
Just curious...Iowa is closer to Arizona or New Mexico than Boston. Why not look for a sun belt car?sigpicComment
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i got a 88 ix and i got a fewmore issues than that i got some qoutes to fix mine and they werent to bad just teach yourself to fix the rust yourself its not that hard i would only pay $3000 tops thats all they are really worth in that condition but i did get mine for $500 now thats a good deal
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4500 is a bit much for a 325iX when the doors are that bad. Ideally you rear valence is toast and the rust has spread to the rear tire wells. This is what you need to do.
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how much did it cost you to do that? And where did you get the rear valence from?Originally posted by dlmrun2002 View Post
After offering the guy 3000 and a couple of phone calls later, we settled on 4000. I appreciate your guy's input and I understand that 4000 might still be too high, but I've been looking for a long time now and I have seen plenty of ix's in much worse or similar condition going for more. I will keep you posted on what happens and wish me luck on my 18 hour drive back :D.
Most likely I'll be bugging you all again in the near future (assuming everything works out great with the car). If you guys could offer me any advice on fixing the rust issues, links to DIY and also what I could do to spray the bottom of the car to prevent future rust.
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Panel is under $300. Paint and material. Couple hundred..... time.. Priceless..Comment
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Do have a link to the place where you bought the panel from? I have been searching and can't find any (could be I am not searching for the right thing)Originally posted by dlmrun2002 View Post
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In my opinion, on the 2K or 4K issue...maintenance does count for a lot. I buy low and fix the things myself. But if you have the $$$ and want to pay for someone already having done a bunch of things, then I say go for it. Find iX's in any condition is not an easy thing to do in general...they are simply put, rare. You're going to find more of them in the rust belt because who needs AWD in the sun belt anyway. And there are many $2K cars that need $2K worth of work. And $500 cars that need $3K worth of work. My 89 iX is worth $4500 to me. Can I get that for it. Probably not. But the value to You is what counts...so long as you're keeping it indefinitely.Comment
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Thanks for the confidence boost there. I love these e30's and too me, having something that has most of the intial work done is preferable. being a graduate student doesn't give me enough time to do all this work, although I try to tinker around with my cars anyways.Originally posted by smcdermott326 View Post
hopefully in a couple of years, I will be able to tear the whole thing apart and do all the work on my own.Comment
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Incidently, mine has 203K. I power washed the underside of my car and got a can of paint on undercoating and with a brush, did the complete underside. Granted you should probably fix any rust before doing that. But even if you didn't, it will help for sure.Comment
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Did you spray the underbody with rust inhibitor first before you painted it? If so, whats the best rust inhibitor to use out there?
any links to DIY articles??
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No. The original undercoating was already on the underside. I just cleaned the hell out of it first then used the out of the can style undercoating that you can get at a autobody paint supply shop. The stuff is really goopy but dries fairly well. It's not paint by any means...more like tar. I don't know specifics about rust inhibitors.Comment
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Alrighty .... I am flying out tomorrow morning to Boston to pick up my baby. I'm excited to finally have one of my own ... the drive should be fun too (thinkin about stopping at Niagara Falls on the way).
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