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Coolant loss issue.....sort of

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    #1

    Coolant loss issue.....sort of

    Alright - so a month ago I blew a radiator hose. I got it fixed quickly - topped off the coolant and bled it all out. Now, for some reason my car has always run at the 1/4 mark. As of late my low coolant indicator will come on and my temp will creep up when stopped. However, when I pulled the cap (with the motor running) to add coolant it was at the top - and maybe even rising a little. I don't want to take the "start replacing parts until it's fixed" route here - so anyone have any tips? The t-stat is fairly new (20k) and the waterpump is 10k old.

    Could it be:
    Fan clutch
    Radiator
    Temp sensors
    other?

    TIA
    "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."
    Tags: None
    #2
    You may still have air in the cooling system and a proper bleed would be the first action (see below). You should also test the fan clutch and if the engine overheated when the hose blew, replace the thermostat.

    1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
    the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
    on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

    2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
    the bleed.

    3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
    temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
    in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
    up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
    warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
    up the coolant as necessary.

    4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
    several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
    this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
    indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
    repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

    5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
    bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
    few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment

      #3
      The car is very well bled. Which temp sensor feeds the cluster?
      "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

      Comment

        #4
        If you didn't disconnect the sensors when you replaced the hose, that isn't going to be your problem. And as I recall, if you get them crossed the engine will run terribly when cold and the gauge won't budge off cold.

        For grins, try the bleed procedure I posted above. It won't take long and will eliminate any possibility of air in the cooling system as being part of the problem.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          If you didn't disconnect the sensors when you replaced the hose, that isn't going to be your problem. And as I recall, if you get them crossed the engine will run terribly when cold and the gauge won't budge off cold.

          For grins, try the bleed procedure I posted above. It won't take long and will eliminate any possibility of air in the cooling system as being part of the problem.
          I did it again today. No results.
          "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

          Comment

            #6
            Per the procedure above? That being the case, the next most likely candidate is the thermostat and fan clutch.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment

              #7
              Is there any chance the expansion tank cap is not holding the proper pressure?

              Comment

                #8
                See Jlevie's post (I use a different procedure but bleeding is #1)

                One other thing you may want to check as well is the bleed/steam line (small 8mm tube from the top of the radiator to the reservoir).

                When these get clogged it creates all manor of havoc and problems when bleeding the cooling system.

                Comment

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