Coolant loss issue.....sort of

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  • Turf1600
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2006
    • 9815
    #1

    Coolant loss issue.....sort of

    Alright - so a month ago I blew a radiator hose. I got it fixed quickly - topped off the coolant and bled it all out. Now, for some reason my car has always run at the 1/4 mark. As of late my low coolant indicator will come on and my temp will creep up when stopped. However, when I pulled the cap (with the motor running) to add coolant it was at the top - and maybe even rising a little. I don't want to take the "start replacing parts until it's fixed" route here - so anyone have any tips? The t-stat is fairly new (20k) and the waterpump is 10k old.

    Could it be:
    Fan clutch
    Radiator
    Temp sensors
    other?

    TIA
    "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."
    Tags: None
    • jlevie
      R3V OG
      • Nov 2006
      • 13530
      #2
      You may still have air in the cooling system and a proper bleed would be the first action (see below). You should also test the fan clutch and if the engine overheated when the hose blew, replace the thermostat.

      1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
      the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
      on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

      2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
      the bleed.

      3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
      temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
      in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
      up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
      warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
      up the coolant as necessary.

      4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
      several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
      this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
      indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
      repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

      5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
      bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
      few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment

        • Turf1600
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 9815
          #3
          The car is very well bled. Which temp sensor feeds the cluster?
          "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

            Comment

            • jlevie
              R3V OG
              • Nov 2006
              • 13530
              #4
              If you didn't disconnect the sensors when you replaced the hose, that isn't going to be your problem. And as I recall, if you get them crossed the engine will run terribly when cold and the gauge won't budge off cold.

              For grins, try the bleed procedure I posted above. It won't take long and will eliminate any possibility of air in the cooling system as being part of the problem.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                Comment

                • Turf1600
                  R3V OG
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 9815
                  #5
                  Originally posted by jlevie
                  If you didn't disconnect the sensors when you replaced the hose, that isn't going to be your problem. And as I recall, if you get them crossed the engine will run terribly when cold and the gauge won't budge off cold.

                  For grins, try the bleed procedure I posted above. It won't take long and will eliminate any possibility of air in the cooling system as being part of the problem.
                  I did it again today. No results.
                  "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

                    Comment

                    • jlevie
                      R3V OG
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 13530
                      #6
                      Per the procedure above? That being the case, the next most likely candidate is the thermostat and fan clutch.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                        Comment

                        • ethree
                          E30 Fanatic
                          • Aug 2007
                          • 1213
                          #7
                          Is there any chance the expansion tank cap is not holding the proper pressure?

                            Comment

                            • DCColegrove
                              Banned
                              • Dec 2007
                              • 2748
                              #8
                              See Jlevie's post (I use a different procedure but bleeding is #1)

                              One other thing you may want to check as well is the bleed/steam line (small 8mm tube from the top of the radiator to the reservoir).

                              When these get clogged it creates all manor of havoc and problems when bleeding the cooling system.

                                Comment

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