Clutch Stop ???
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I just got one of those elevator bolt style clutch stops from ebay. But there's something like two whole inches of dead pedal travel after putting this in. Granted, I'm running a stage 2 clutch. But I don't recall having to push my pedal that far with the stock clutch either. I'm all for finding myself a longer bolt from the hardware store. I think I tried Home Depot once, but didn't find any elevator bolts there. Am I the only one whose disengagement point is that high off the floor?Leave a comment:
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IMO I would adjust it to that point where there is that extra lapse. So then you have leeway. andnot have to worry about it. seems like an easy fix to meLeave a comment:
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I did the DIY clutch stop and adjusted it to have an extra 1/4+ inch of gap after the clutch disingages but with the recent temps of 10 degress and not gettin above freezing during the day my pedal had to be depressed farther so i had to take the stop out. Is this common with a clutch at cold temps or is it getting close to needing replaced
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I have the UUC adjustable one, makes for fun flying through the gearsLeave a comment:
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i was disappointed to find that my current car having a transmission swap means it lacks the hole required to screw in a clutch stop.Leave a comment:
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A bolt that works is an M10 x 40mm with 1.5 pitch
A CAB hex bolt is just the part. (# 31111137888 )
#10 in realOEM pic
I installed new bolts while replacing cab bushings - so there was one in a used nut/bolt/washer can that I keep. When making visits to bone yards – misc clips, fasteners, and small trim pieces are snagged on sight - so I had some damper caps to choose from. I think the cap I ended up using was one of those little, black, round covers that go on exposed bolts which fasten front seat brackets to floor board. Part# 72111929421 is a comparable cap. #9 in realOEM diagram
This pic shows 2 OE stops, 3 cover caps, washer, M10 locking nut, and above mentioned CAB bolt.

The bolt would only drive in so deep (was not an open threaded hole to engine bay) so the bolt/washer were matched to OE unit.


Installed
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a clutch shouldnt heat up more while laping, unless you are poor at rev-matching and shifting in general. clutch should only take a beating on drag starts, and there isnt much of that during a day at the track.
also try using quality brake fluid for your clutch. 20 year old dot3 isnt gonna do the job.Leave a comment:
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I'll buy that clutch stop from you.I've had problems using clutch stops.
After a hot day at the track and running the car for 20-30 minutes at a time, the clutch engagement point started to change, going further towards the floor. This resulted in progressively harder shifting, and then some trans grinding. I adjusted the clutch stop which fixed the problem, but the next morning, the engagement moved back to where it was before tracking the car, giving me about an extra inch of travel after disengagement. This was all with
I ended up just throwing the clutch stop in the toolbox and driving without it. I also race other cars that have the clutch button to start the car (no clutch stops), and I find that it takes less time to re-familiarize with the other car's clutch engagements/pressures without a clutch stop. Having no clutch stop also helps modulate when problems in the clutch system arise, like for instance if your slave/master starts to act up during a race due to low brake fluid level during a turn or something, sometimes stomping on it all the way to the floor and letting it spring back up a few times temporarily fixes the problem. If you had a clutch stop, you wouldn't be able to do that.Leave a comment:

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