I could use some help. My old e30 has 330k miles and is rusty. I don't expect exhaust bolts to cooperate. Can I lower the exhaust by removing all rubber hangers and then remove shields and driveshaft? I don't think the exhaust flanges will come apart easily. I imagine the bolts are rusted and rounded off. I am hoping to do this while the car is on 4 ramps. The ramps will be in opposite directions so that the car cannot roll. I know I need to mark the driveshaft bolts and flanges so that they go back in the same place. Any tips or suggestions?
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Could use some advice with Guibo replacement
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I would wire brush any loose rust off the bolt and nut. Soak (the nut end especially) with PB. Let it soak for a couple of days. Use a breaker bar and a long box end wrench to give yourself plenty of leverage. You can use some heat to expand and contract the bolt to break the rust bond. More PB, which will wick into any gaps.
You'll want to use all new exhaust hardware anyway, so worst case you could sawzall the nut off.
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You might be surprised with the 6 down pipe nuts. If you use a 6 point socket, they often come off with PB soak. The nuts are actually copper and will deform long before the studs. Heat makes really quick work of it. The nuts are readily available for about $2ea, so I just replace them every time we pull an exhaust at work.
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Thanks guys. I have the exhaust hanging down and I believe that will give ample room. Every flange and bolt are rusted bad and I rather not open up a can of worms. I may have to, but I would like to try this first. The shields are down and I can see the CSB. The CSB is completely shot and that is likely what is causing the wicked vibration. The thing I am worried about at the moment is that the two bolts hold the CSB in place are pretty rusted and rounded. Is this often a problem. Any history of people snapping these things? Thanks again.
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Thanks All,
The driveshaft is out!! I ended up heating the CSB bolts and spraying PB blaster for 4 cycles. Then used 6 point socket and it worked. So, here is the summary of how I got this out without removing the exhaust. The car was on 4 steel ramps. The exhaust was removed from all hangers and then a jack was placed under the muffler and lowered to the ground. I then removed the heat shields and the cross bar at the front of the heat shield. I then removed the loosened the guibo bolts with a 17mm 6 point and a breaker bar. Once they let go, I switched to a ratchet and a 6 point 17mm wrench on the back end. I did this for the 3 bolts that go to the tranny. We then loosened the 4 bolts to the diff side of shaft. We marked the diff with my daughter least favorite nail polish. Then put a jack and a block under the rear diff and lifted to get the rear wheels off the rear ramp and rotated so that we could remove the guibo bolts and diff bolts. The CSB bolts were then removed. We had to then remove the vibration dampener and access the remaining 3 guibo bolts. We then removed those. This gave us enough room to then lower the driveshaft out from the driver's side of the car. We then had to heat the center driveshaft nut and use pipe wrenches to loosen it to loosen and split the halves. Exhaust is still rusted to hell and no flanges were touched. Thank you to everyone. I now will be asking about the parts list after I take a break and get some food. Thanks again.Last edited by clydesdale; 08-29-2020, 05:56 PM.
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It is time to order parts. Can you guys check my list and also what Brand to stay away from. I see Dorman, Febi, Meyle and Lemforder.
I think I need:
1. Guibo
2. CSB
3. Driveshaft centering sleeve - BTW, how does the original come out?
4. New lock nuts and bolts for Guibo
Additionally:
Exhaust hangers
Shift linkage rebuild - I currently have chicken wire holding things together down there.
Thanks again.
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