Originally posted by roguetoaster
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Coolant leak from unknown part
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I think that a fan that functions at less than optimal can significantly impact cooling. Clearly the clutch fan increases in speed as RPM goes up, but if the coupling isn't working effectively I suspect that the fan cannot achieve proper RPM for the additional thermal load of increased combustion cycles.
IMO, the magazine test on a clutch fan does not really work as I got the same "test" result out of a used, likely degraded clutch as I did out of two new units. Undoubtedly there is an RPM/temperature performance curve chart for fan clutches, but I've never seen one.
While I think it's unlikely you could also be dealing with poor sealing at the radiator fan shroud leading to ducted losses, and even something as simple as having the fan installed the wrong way around on the clutch.
Also, is your auxiliary fan coming on at any point?
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Get the car to operating temp. If a rolled up magazine can stop the fan, replace the fan clutch. If the clutch is bad, the car will usually cool to normal temps at speed.
Was a pressure test was performed?
Was the temp verified, or are you relying on the unreliable stock gauge? Many e30's see 3/4 on the gauge unless you tap the dash to make that annoying ground connection.
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Okay so after further investigation I discovered my Aux fan wasn't working. Did some research and ended up replacing the coolant switch on the radiator and the aux fan resistor. Previously if I jumped the car side wiring hi and low aux fan only the hi setting came on. Now the low and hi work when jumped so that shows that the resistor worked. Only issue now is even when normal (and 3/4ths) operating temp the aux fan never came on. Any thoughts? Im curious why jumping it turned the fan on where as when attached to the switch it didn't work..
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