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Coolant temp. sensor testing?

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    Coolant temp. sensor testing?

    Can a coolant temp sensor test within its resistance paramaters for temp but still be bad?

    I'm tryin to track down why my chipped, cammed '89 is is flooding itself on start up when slightly warm.

    Fuel presssure regulator tested okay, afm didn't have any major flat spots in its resistance and wasn't binding, fuel system holds pressure for a long time so i don't think there is a leaky injecter injector.

    The coolant temp sensor tests within its resistance limits, my question is could it not be reacting fast enough to temperature change?

    The problem is it seems like the car floods itself after it has warmed up and then sat shut down until nearly cold like say sitting for 4 hours. It starts okay when totally cold, idles kinda shitty(hunts) and misses until it warms up, I had attributed this to the cam and maybe the stupid platinum plugs it has, the flooding problem has seemed to get worse recently as the weather warms up outside.

    '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

    #2
    The problem is it seems like the car floods itself after it has warmed up and then sat shut down until nearly cold like say sitting for 4 hours. It starts okay when totally cold, idles kinda shitty(hunts) and misses until it warms up, I had attributed this to the cam and maybe the stupid platinum plugs it has, the flooding problem has seemed to get worse recently as the weather warms up outside.
    That description probably contains a significant clue about your hot start problem. And based on that I'd suspect an intake leak as it would be a good match to the cold and hot start problems.

    If the temp sensor is has the correct resistance at two widely separated temperatures, it is good.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      Would an intake leak would cause the car to flood itself when starting warm? I mean the idle hunting on warm up sure, I already fixed a small intake leak on the vac hose to the fpr, but a vac leak would cause a lean running condition wouldn't it? I also resealed the fittings going into the intake boot with silicone which were loose after I removed them. Spraying carb cleaner on all the connections into the intake yielded no change in idle also.
      Last edited by Adrian_Visser; 04-09-2009, 08:22 PM.

      '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

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        #4
        check the resistance of the CTS wires that run to ecu, you may have a sensor that is working fine, but the wiring could be the culprit.

        All-Red/MHW style Professional Tinted Tail lights
        PnP EMS, fuel injectors, wideband o2 systems

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          #5
          perhaps it has leaky injectors too.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

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            #6
            Yah I was thinking of leaky injectors too. If an injector was leaking wouldn't the system not hold pressure though? I left my pressure tester in line with the inlet of the fuel rail after I shut the car off to let it bleed down a bit and reduce the fuel spillage but after a half hour the pressure held steady, no change. I guess the inline check valve in front of the pump works too lol.

            I think the first thing I need to do is change my plugs the car has platinum two's in it now and seeing all the shitty reviews they've gotten from people I need to eliminate them first.

            Just throwin this out there but what would dirty injectors with a shitty sparay pattern do?

            '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

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