E30 m3 ls1
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i hope someday i will also have a freshly blasted e30 m3 shell sitting in my garage waiting for a v8 as well
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Finally got the car back. Blasters did a great job. The car is surprisingly straight. Rust sections should be patched by tomorrow. Then re-undercoat the underside and Lizard Skin the interior. Hoping to have it rolling by next week...









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it would be very tough to get the reverse mounted pedals to fit under a 'street' car dash. lots of junk in the way. with that said, my buddy somehow figured out how to do it. not for the faint of heart. LOTS of wires and things in the way.
jasonLeave a comment:
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is bullshit.
How is spending 10k on rebuilding one of the most beautifully designed automobiles in the world better than spending 16k to 80k on a new piece of shit electronically disabled and restricted heap of plastic?
Looks like it's going to be a badass build!Leave a comment:
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I dont think you are following the thread. I didnt plan on reduilding the whole thing from the beginning. Only planned on doing a motor swap and suspension. After further investigation of the chassis I found severe rust and decided to blast and rebuild the whole thing.
Im not sure where you are lost. My budget is "A". If building the engine alone takes up most of "A" then I cant do everything I want to do. You can blow $10k building an S14 without blinking an eye.
Its pretty easy in my opinion. Rebuild and upgraded an s14 for $10k + then drop it in a rusty chasis. Or do a swap and rebuild the WHOLE car for a bit over $10k? The only thing im not doing is the blasting and I dont plan on painting it any time soon. Cost is actually not that bad when your doing all the labor.
As far a logic in a build?? LOL, the logical thing to do would buy a NEW car and not rebuild a 24 year old 3 series....Last edited by LSM3; 06-22-2012, 08:59 PM.Leave a comment:
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The kit was designed initially to actuate a vacuum booster, or a hydraulic booster (e23, e28 pr exemple) by fitting a BMW slave cylinder. There probably is a selection of slaves from AP Racing, Tilton or Wilwood.
BTW I have received my order for 20 rod ends this morning and should have the remaining brackets by Wednesday.Leave a comment:
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I'm not quite following the logic of this build. You said a rebuild of a S14 is too much, but it can't be as much as a break down to the shell, eventual repaint, motor swap, new parts, etc. can it?Leave a comment:
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Ive been watching the development of this kit. I want to keep assisted brakes. Im gathering this would actuate a booster via slave cylinder? Are there any other ways available instead of a slave cylinder? Thanks, im really intereated in this kit.New booster relocation kit for J1Z or Corvette V8 swaps. The Tilton 77 master cylinder is located inside the pedal box. The adapter plate on the firewall has channels for the hydraulic fluid. They are threaded 10mmx1. The MC can actuate hydraulically a remote brake booster, located anywhere in the car. Or it can actuate the brakes directly (no assist). The kit is missing one piece, which shall be ready next week. The bracket will allow a stock pedal ratio of 4:1 or 6:1
This kit is intended at handy DIYers.
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Wow this thing is going to be a beast! Are you planning on racing this thing when your done? Or you just doing it to spite the haters?Leave a comment:

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