Thanks guys. Part of the thoroughness is because this will be a guide for me when I put this thing back together :D
Now more fun:
Taking off the fuel rail. First, i screwed around with the plastic wire cover and took it off first. Mistake.
Its a tight space to work in
And if you're really smart like me, you'll work with a super sharp tool to pop off the little snaps that hold it on, and you'll get a puncture wound
So now you'll be blood bros with your car. If you want to skip this unnecessary step, I'd do this...
Two bolts hold the fuel rail to the lower ITB plenum
Pop off this guy, vents the valve cover down to the oil separator. Mine was super brittle, as you can see... no big deal its only a $34 hose
Then disconnect The two fuel lines from the back of the fuel rail. Careful, fuel will spill out here, and will spill out of the rail as you move it around to pull it from the engine bay. (Look at where my bit driver is connected - those are the clamps Im talking about)
I disconnected the fuel rail and injectors from the silver colored metal part that holds the wiring, then left the wiring in this metal trough thing (technical term)
The little snaps weren't like i expected them to be - like most BMW clamps where you push down on the back and the front wires move forward to release the connection. These I had to pry the ends of the wire away from the harness gently and work the connection loose. I could have done this completely wrong, so thats just my experience.
I'm sitting on vacation writing this, so I might be mis-remembering (so I'll bracket it then come back and correct/confirm) [but the fifth wire that comes out of the metal trough thingy runs down to this junction and bracket that is held on to the lower plenum by a metal brace. The cable that goes beyond this junction goes to the idle control valve]
This runs down to the idle control valve
This shows its full path
With all this disconnected, the metal trough thingy will pull aside with all the wiring attached
And disconnect the starter - pretty self explanatory just DONT use impact like i did - broke the connector nothing shrink-wrap and a new connector wont fix, but still. :tsk:
Also pay attention which bolts go where on the starter. If memory serves they're all different sizes.
More fun to come - here's a pic of the new OEM insulation i got for after paint. All in the details!
Now more fun:
Taking off the fuel rail. First, i screwed around with the plastic wire cover and took it off first. Mistake.
Its a tight space to work in
And if you're really smart like me, you'll work with a super sharp tool to pop off the little snaps that hold it on, and you'll get a puncture wound
So now you'll be blood bros with your car. If you want to skip this unnecessary step, I'd do this...
Two bolts hold the fuel rail to the lower ITB plenum
Pop off this guy, vents the valve cover down to the oil separator. Mine was super brittle, as you can see... no big deal its only a $34 hose
Then disconnect The two fuel lines from the back of the fuel rail. Careful, fuel will spill out here, and will spill out of the rail as you move it around to pull it from the engine bay. (Look at where my bit driver is connected - those are the clamps Im talking about)
I disconnected the fuel rail and injectors from the silver colored metal part that holds the wiring, then left the wiring in this metal trough thing (technical term)
The little snaps weren't like i expected them to be - like most BMW clamps where you push down on the back and the front wires move forward to release the connection. These I had to pry the ends of the wire away from the harness gently and work the connection loose. I could have done this completely wrong, so thats just my experience.
I'm sitting on vacation writing this, so I might be mis-remembering (so I'll bracket it then come back and correct/confirm) [but the fifth wire that comes out of the metal trough thingy runs down to this junction and bracket that is held on to the lower plenum by a metal brace. The cable that goes beyond this junction goes to the idle control valve]
This runs down to the idle control valve
This shows its full path
With all this disconnected, the metal trough thingy will pull aside with all the wiring attached
And disconnect the starter - pretty self explanatory just DONT use impact like i did - broke the connector nothing shrink-wrap and a new connector wont fix, but still. :tsk:
Also pay attention which bolts go where on the starter. If memory serves they're all different sizes.
More fun to come - here's a pic of the new OEM insulation i got for after paint. All in the details!
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