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Looking at an M3 tomorrow - advice?

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    Looking at an M3 tomorrow - advice?

    Hey guys,

    I'm checking out an M3 tomorrow and could use some advice. I've seen the car already and spoke with the owner quite a bit. It has a bit over 100k on it but has been sitting for a few months. The car is a bit of a project but the owner has owned it for a long time and is very passionate about the car, 2nd owner, so I know he is well intentioned/vested in it. The cosmetics don't bother me much but I'm slightly concerned about the engine:

    He bought the turner 2.5L kit for it sometime back and had a shop do all the work. Somehow they messed it up and the bore was wrong and after a few hundred miles he had to redo it all. I'll get more specifics on it but he has all the receipts of the whole history. He ended up putting the bottom end together himself the second time to avoid any machine shop errors. He says it has had a couple thousand miles on it since the 2nd build and will get the battery charged and what not so I can drive it and check it out in depth. He mentioned that it has some lifter noise at idle but smooths out during normal operating conditions. He said this was normal for M3s. Is this true? Should I be concerned? He redid all the timing components and associated stuff while in there.

    What else should I look for aside from the obvious? I know what rod knock sounds like lol. I'm a fairly competent car guy and have built a few engines, done the high hp game in other vehicles, etc. I was going to do a compression test on it while there but what else is reasonable to do tomorrow? I can't really test the bottom end out in his driveway. Would some sort of pre-purchase inspection be worthwhile? I don't know if any shops really know this car around here.

    Really excited about this prospect but I don't want to let that blind me. It's not a small chunk of change for me. Thanks for any advice!

    Gabe
    Gabe
    '91 318is

    #2
    So this enthusiast has issues with a prior rebuild, rebuilds it again himself and after it's barely broken in wants to sell it? Make sure you know what you're getting into. Most 2.5 rebuilds are half assed because people only get these bottom end kits and don't do the rest. Just make sure the engine is healthy.
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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      #3
      That's the kicker. If it lives past a couple thousand miles it makes me a bit more assured rather than a "fresh" build. Also, he hasn't advertised it. Sort of a "barn" find, if you will. I can tell he doesn't really want to sell it but he doesn't want to see it rot either. I've certainly lost a few nights sleep mulling this over!
      Gabe
      '91 318is

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        #4
        My advice is to take money and buy it.

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          #5
          I think price is a big factor. If it's $10k and complete and straight then buy it immediately. If it is $20k+ you better get a good ppi

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            #6
            Also keep in mind e30 m3 parts are hard to find nowadays. And when you do find them be ready to pay. Just do some research on pricing. Beautiful examples will be in the 30k+ range. Something decent above 20k for sure. Anything below that will most likely need some attention. If the body is rust free and car is complete (no missing parts) definitely jump on it...if the price is right of course.

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              #7
              I highly recommend a PPI especially on a car with 5 figure engine rebuild costs. A PPI will also take the burden of educating you about the vehicle specifics off of the seller. You can then negotiate a fair price based on the findings.

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