5 lug vs 4 lug

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  • MR 325
    replied
    Originally posted by z31maniac
    Aww, I guess I'm too much of a snob to not at least buy new rotors/pads and rebuild the calipers while they are off. I HATE doing things twice, despise it. That's why I did so much extra stuff once I had the M20 out.
    Only reason I didn't replace them is everything was almost new and the front has some fancy drilled and slotted rotors. :)

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  • Stephen
    replied
    Originally posted by e30s52
    But you have to run a higher ET so less choices in good looking wheels.
    This. Why i decided against 5 lug honestly. Unless m3 stuff were to fall into my lap. I love me some low offset

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  • e30s52
    replied
    But you have to run a higher ET so less choices in good looking wheels.

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  • Aptyp
    replied
    BUT e36 is even easier, because strut itself disconnects from spindle and you can add camber this way... So if compared e30 to e36, e36 is still better design.

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  • Gooch
    replied
    Originally posted by 87-325ic
    what is this easy way of taking struts off you all talk about? ??

    i remember there being some sort of bolt on piece that comes off with the 5-lug stuff, whereas the e30 you have to remove the two ball joints and the stuff on top , plus the caliper whatever you do with it.

    is this right?
    Yeah, for the e30 m3 stuff, you take off the wheel, caliper, rotor then all you have to do is disconnect the bottom steering knuckle with 4 bolts (picture stolen from the internets, but you can see the removable knuckle) and then the top three nuts inside the engine bay on top of the strut tower.



    The regular e30 strut housings don't have the removable bottom knuckle, so you HAVE to pop the ball joints out to remove the strut assembly.

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  • Aptyp
    replied
    3 bolts... you can swap between coilovers and regular suspension in 30 minutes... Amazing advantage. Today I am on Eibachs, earlier today I was on H&Rs. I can pretty much try all suspensions in 1 day, hehe.

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  • 87-325ic
    replied
    what is this easy way of taking struts off you all talk about? ??

    i remember there being some sort of bolt on piece that comes off with the 5-lug stuff, whereas the e30 you have to remove the two ball joints and the stuff on top , plus the caliper whatever you do with it.

    is this right?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gooch
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    I remember reading that 5 lug wheel bearings are more heavy duty which may (or may not) help with pad knockback. There's also that the E30M hardware allows bump steer spacers (and easier suspension installations for those who don't like separating ball joints), not sure about E36 hardware.
    God those knuckles helped me out so much the other day...I needed to tighten the collar nut so instead of separating the ball joints I just took that bottom piece off the strut. I had the entire strut out of the car in about a half hour.

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  • Aptyp
    replied
    Originally posted by z31maniac
    Aww, I guess I'm too much of a snob to not at least buy new rotors/pads and rebuild the calipers while they are off. I HATE doing things twice, despise it. That's why I did so much extra stuff once I had the M20 out.

    I'd love to go 5-lug just for the wheel availability. 17 x 9 TRM MT1-R with 235/40s would be awesome. And the wheels are only ~16lbs.
    +1, but those are the expenses you'd have either way. I rebuilt all my calipers and got new rotors and pads.

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  • z31maniac
    replied
    Originally posted by MR 325
    The rear trailing arms after selling the subframe cost me $700.

    I didn't but pads or rotors front or rear. :)
    Aww, I guess I'm too much of a snob to not at least buy new rotors/pads and rebuild the calipers while they are off. I HATE doing things twice, despise it. That's why I did so much extra stuff once I had the M20 out.

    I'd love to go 5-lug just for the wheel availability. 17 x 9 TRM MT1-R with 235/40s would be awesome. And the wheels are only ~16lbs.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aptyp
    replied
    my entire setup cost me below $800. After selling my front billies, aluminum control arms and weaves my 5-lug cost me $350 or so... that's only if you count 5-lug swap itself. I did a whole lot of extra work while there, that cost me more.

    e36 5-lug setup is incredibly affordable.

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  • MR 325
    replied
    Originally posted by z31maniac
    I thought you gave around $800 just for the MCoupe rear. Don't know about the front, but if you add in new rotors and pads, etc.
    The rear trailing arms after selling the subframe cost me $700.

    I didn't but pads or rotors front or rear. :)

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  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    I remember reading that 5 lug wheel bearings are more heavy duty which may (or may not) help with pad knockback. There's also that the E30M hardware allows bump steer spacers (and easier suspension installations for those who don't like separating ball joints), not sure about E36 hardware.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30s52
    replied
    I dont know why everyone says e30 m3 is so expensive. I made 300 bucks off mine.

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  • z31maniac
    replied
    Originally posted by MR 325
    I honestly have no idea on the cost of my stuff, I don't want to know a total price on this car! :)
    I thought you gave around $800 just for the MCoupe rear. Don't know about the front, but if you add in new rotors and pads, etc.

    Especially if you are like me and already have coilovers on 4 lug with good Koni's. Going Massive even for the bad boy kits is around $2500 front and rear. Then new wheels for the 5 lug, etc.

    You can get some decent 17 x 8s and 17 x 9s now that clear BBKs, for under $300 each.

    The only real justification I can see for 5-lug is to have a bunch of cheap OEM wheels to run. But if you are putting big sticky tires and Race brakes on your car, you are probably looking to run lighter wheels than what OEM has to offer.....

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