Originally posted by Aptyp
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Just completed swap!! but front wheel not centered, what´s wrong ?? Please help!
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-03/2005 E46 330D Touring 6spd(204hp/410nM) Sapphire Black/Naturbraun Sport...300k KM & 35mpg(mixed)
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Originally posted by Vtec?lol View PostThis is all confusing. So to set my caster center, do i need 97m3 lca's or m3 spindles?
"BMW Style 32 Poster-Child"
HTTP://WWW.CLAVINZERO.COM/e30-5-lug
**(My Guide to E36 M3/Z3 1.9L 5-lug Swap)**
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Originally posted by etxxz View Posthttp://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=114635
you're a moron. take it down a notch. MY THREAD actually.
used an e30 Koni insert without taking any travel away or elongating the strut. I hate people that think there is one way to do things.
A. in that thread, video shows how to install e36 koni into e36 housing. Nothing special. Every shop that has ever installed konis into an e36 has done exactly that. Look at that Koni sliding in and being held by the bolt, because it has absolutely nothing to do with the rest of that clown's thread.
B. As I was saying after doing a lot of research:
taken from e30tech member, illustrates difference in height between stock e30 strut insert (long one) and IX/Corrado/Camaro insert (short one). Look at this joker's thread and decide for your self whether he used stock-height Koni e30 inserts or Koni's from GC kit that are in fact short ones.
To reiterate what I am saying... Stock height e30 strut inserts are TOO LONG to install into e36 housings. I used iX ones, part number P36-0251. As I welded my struts together, I used as little of a spacer I could to give shock the most travel and still have H&R Race slightly compressed when bolted down. With all that my spacer was 2.25" that is 57mm. If I would have installed a 92mm spacer, my billies would ride on bump stops at all times.
So the only response I'd take to all this would be a pic of length of his strut insert, or pic of the part number on the insert, or pic of the shock travel from grand nut to mount. Either one of those 3 options would deduce an answer.
I still want to see GC's (Jay's) solution, but since I haven't seen it, I can't say anything about it. I keep hearing about a miracle fix, but just haven't seen it. It's possible they figured something out that I haven't tried.
I'll have side shot of my car up shortly, I need to put control arms back on. I had a few things to redo. Been working on clearing shop space to work inside and NC's mild winter is turning out to be not so mild. But I have been adding updates to my thread with pics whenever I get a chance.Last edited by Aptyp; 01-22-2010, 07:42 AM.
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Originally posted by Hellabad View PostFor the OP with the wheel set back, you need 1996-1999 e36M3 lower control arms ONLY. Nothing else will work.Originally posted by atmosferas View PostI did everything I read, E30M3 offset bushings, E36M3 96+ control arms
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Yep VERY good price on the spindles ^ !!
Been thinking about it, but I would also need a long list of items... M3 rotors, calipers, brackets, struts, springs.... $$ !
I´m considering Aptyp´s advice about moving the strut mounts forward 10mm.. will take a look this weekend... if my kids allow time....
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Originally posted by atmosferas View PostYep VERY good price on the spindles ^ !!
Been thinking about it, but I would also need a long list of items... M3 rotors, calipers, brackets, struts, springs.... $$ !
I´m considering Aptyp´s advice about moving the strut mounts forward 10mm.. will take a look this weekend... if my kids allow time....
If you follow my advice and you have a strut bar, make sure it will all work together. I ran into that problem and had to shave part of tower's rim to still have strut bar mount.
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Just wanted to thank Aptyp for spreading good tech about this swap. We were doing an E36 front suspension swap onto an E30, following bad tech from elsewhere, and thankfully found his threads here on R3vlimited and in his tech article.
All of the E30 and E36 non-M LCAs were identical. Only the '96-99 M3 LCA has any more spindle offset
The '96-99 M3 LCAs do indeed have more forward offset to the spindle mount, but its not enough to fix what's wrong with the E36 spindle/strut on an E30. You do need the E36 M3 spindles, too.
Left: E36 non-M spindles, E30 LCAs, offset LCA bushings. Right: With the addition of '96 M3 LCAs its better...
With E36 non-M spindles, '95 M3 offset LCA bushings, and '96 M3 LCAs this is where we're at. We still need to move the wheel forward, so we are looking at alternatives to the E36 M3 spindles.
Originally posted by Aptyp View Postdrill new holes for your strut mounts 10mm in front of stock holes. Nothing really complicated. Measure enough times to be damn sure to drill once.
We are looking at making new Lower Control Arms to fix this without the need to go to M3 spindles/rotors/calipers. For our project, which has a strict budget ($2010 GRM Challenge), we cannot afford to buy the M3 spindle or brakes.Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
Project Thread for the now-burned-to-a-crisp $2011 GRM Challenge Winning E30 V8 :(
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Originally posted by Fair! View PostWe are looking at making new Lower Control Arms to fix this without the need to go to M3 spindles/rotors/calipers. For our project, which has a strict budget ($2010 GRM Challenge), we cannot afford to buy the M3 spindle or brakes.
Moving strut mount forward make surprisingly a big difference. Moving up top by 10mm still move wheel hub about 6mm forward. Doesn't sound like a lot, but it really does look much better. This is because you're pivoting entire strut assembly over the outer ball joint. I also imagine that it would help reduce bump steer, because tie-rod also moves lower (but only by 1-2mm).
Any ideas on what will you guys do about control arms? Going group-A sounded excessive to me. I was thinking of modifying spindle itself by welding ball joint connection 10mm further out, but I don't have a lot of faith in my welding abilities on forged spindles. What do you have in mind?
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