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NON-M e36 5 lug works?

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    NON-M e36 5 lug works?

    i've tried searching "non-m e36 5-lug" all i get is M3!! anyways..Will NON-M e36 work on e30?

    #2
    Depends on your definition of work. Physically it will, geometrically it will not.

    To work properly you need specialized parts the put the cost up with getting e36 m3 stuff. The kingpins are different as are the control arms. You also get larger brakes for the front. Now what to do with the rear?

    318ti is not my favorite. M-coupe rear is expensive. But the run e30 m3 you need the spindles and caliper brackets. About $600 new from the dealer for those, then figure rotors, used e32 735i calipers and dust shields if you want them and you might as well buy the m-coupe rear end. But for the m-coupe and 318ti you need the toe/camber mods to the rear subframe, and not a bad idea for the e30 m3 stuff either as I assume you will be lowering at least anyways.

    For those costs you can probably get a nice set of 4 lug wheels and better brakes.

    I have gone all four routes mentioned in this post. Non-m was the worst.
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    Gun control means using both hands
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      #3
      What do you mean the worst? Car didn't feel right after? Didn't look as good? Stuff didn't fit? Could I do a full compact (ti) swap, front and rear? Is the e36 compact front end the same as a typical non-M e36?

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        #4
        All of the above. Caster pushed the wheels into the wells to the point it was obvious. The heavy vert fell like it was going to fall on it's face. Turn radius was awful. The rear was wide but felt somewhat shaky. I did not like the brake bias when I changed the front to m-stuff.

        I might have stayed had I known the lee at massive had bbk's for the rear. M coupe rear and e30 m3 rear are what I currently have.
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        Gun control means using both hands
        Sex, Drugs, Rock 'n roll. Pick two.

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          #5
          Why do you "need" toe/camber correction in the rear with a 5 lug, as opposed to a lowered 4 lug car? the alignment kit simply corrects for camber after lowering.

          And you dont need spindles out back, just press in the hubs you decide to use. Ive got Z3 rear hubs and brakes in my stock TAs

          But back to the OP, I ran Non-M stuff and yes it did suck. the wheels were shoved back in the wheelwells and steering was whacky. Switching to all M parts up front with bilstiens and GC coilovers probably cost the same as getting nice 4 lug brakes and rims. Oh well.

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            #6
            Well you should have camber/toe correction in the rear if you plan on slamming the car anyways. Toe problems are made worse by having the wider stance.

            Not bad if you have lots of tires.

            The rear works in many configurations, but the front non-m was not for me. Others have run it and seemed to like it bit my experience was no good.
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            Gun control means using both hands
            Sex, Drugs, Rock 'n roll. Pick two.

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              #7
              A pair of these solve all of the front geometry issues with the E36 non-M front conversion


              Let me know if you want a set, as I have 3 sets in stock.
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              BumbleE30 M52 2.8i

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                #8
                Originally posted by IanS_in_Oz View Post
                A pair of these solve all of the front geometry issues with the E36 non-M front conversion


                Let me know if you want a set, as I have 3 sets in stock.
                What's the cost of these shipped to the US? Rough ballpark figure is okay, for starters...

                Garey


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                  #9
                  I have three sets located in the US, price is USD$280 including shipping.
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                  BumbleE30 M52 2.8i

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